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Ok thanks I crossed all my work with the older diagrams…that makes sense..I see several wires that are omitted for super 8 and clipper…going to work on it again today ..I’ll be back I’m sure..thanks!

Another question I have is what to use for battery cables now that it’s back to six volt…I see they used a braided strap to ground..is that certain gauge…and it appears to be mounted on the frame not the engine block…and what gauge should I use for the positive ground to the starter..I’m guessing 00 but maybe that’s too big…? And is there another ground besides the strap? Thanks again

I would go with the 00 size. Even though the small engine isn't that much of a load it would be more to try and minimize voltage drop because of the long cable length between the battery and the starter. I doubt a modern parts store will offer anything much larger than a #1 or #2 gauge for 6v so you will probably have to get a cable in the larger 00 gauge custom made perhaps thru one of our vendors or someplace like Brillman or one of the wiring loom places.

As to the ground straps, I believe 41 had a thick braided cable between the battery and a nearby point on the frame and then another short length of braided cable between a frame bolt on the X member and a bolt on the engine block or transmission. IMO, while not stock it would not hurt to add another 8 or 10 gauge braided strap somewhere so it would go between the block or the frame to a point on the body or firewall. That extra ground could help with any lights that rely on getting ground thru the old possibly rusted or corroded original frame to sheetmetal or sheetmetal to sheetmetal connections.

If you are going to add a battery disconnect switch then you might need to rethink braid vs cable. You could place a disconnect in the hot cable going to the starter as many have done but with the battery under the seat and dealing with that confined access opening when working with the battery terminals, IMO the disconnect would be better in the ground side between the battery and connection to frame. If you do that then you would need to have another 00 insulated battery cable between the battery positive ground terminal and switch instead of using the bare braid ground terminal.

For battery cables I used Battery Cables USA with good success. You specify exactly what you want and they build it. Cost was reasonable and shipping was quick. Build quality is excellent.

Ok I think I understand all of that …I’m done with a majority of the wiring ..Another part of the diagram that I’m confused by is at the wiper motor all the diagrams indicate a wire on the circuit breaker part of the motor states grounded at ignition switch but does not show where it goes?

And where is the wiper motor picking up power..they really butchered these wires but the rest I’ve got correct..

I cannot answer the question about getting ground at ign switch but maybe someone else can say if there is a ground terminal on the 41 ign switch or if the ground wire just connects to a dash or body screw that is near the ign switch.

Packard used a couple of versions of the S-W electric wiper. These instructions are for the model 645-A which by the date of the publication and shape of the outside pivot pieces I believe may be applicable to the 41 cars. It just says the wire is grounded and the factory drawing just shows it as being grounded.

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Ok thanks…I have figured out the issue…the guy who converted it to 12 still had some connections secure but were cut off down the line …yes the wiper motor grounds out near starter to dash metal…and getting power from the ignition switch…done for day!! Tough under that dash..thanks for all the help!!! Back at it tomorrow

Back at my 41 110 deluxe…continuing replace all the wiring back to 6 volt and to correct schemes….I have removed the lighting switch as almost every terminal has been altered…anyway ..I can’t find any info on the wiring for my directional unit on steering wheel…then I thought maybe it’s not original or they didn’t come with one? Also my foot dimmer headlight switch is really rusty so I figured I would replace it while checking the routing on the wires…any thoughts on accessing the foot unit? It seems like it’s recessed between the fender and frame…I can see how it is removed from the floor but then it drops out from underneath I’m assuming? Thanks again for the responses….super helpful

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That is an aftermarket turn signal unit.

Nothing special about the headlight dimmer switch. Pretty common and used by many manufacturers thru the 70s.

Usually two screws hold it in place and it should pull out from underneath the car.