Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

There is no "next tooth" on these distributors. There are two ways to loosen the distributor to adjust the timing. One is a capscrew that fixes the bracket attached to the distributor and fastens it to the block. There is a slot that allows for some minor movement of the distributor. This is visible by looking down at the distributor. The other is a screw that is on the distributor bracket clamp. Loosening this screw will allow the distributor to be rotated 360 deg. if there were clearance for the vacuum advance. This second screw is often overlooked when adjusting the timing as it is underneath the distributor housing. Loosen the second screw to set the timing. Generally, we have the bracket slot in the middle after the timing has been set.

Can't believe that brand differences in spark plugs were responsible for the engine not starting. A fresh set of plugs would have helped if the first set were fouled from all the starting attempts.

Glad to hear the engine is running, it must have sounded great and felt good.

(o{I}o)

Oh it did. Kind of irritating because that old mechanic found the problem so fast when i had tried to find it for a week. I just don't know if i should turn the distributor to another tooth or not since it ran on that tooth previously.

The distributor drive is slotted, so it's either on the mark, or 180 degrees off. Perhaps you are just loosening the octane selector bolt and not the actual clamp bolt on the bottom of the distributor.

Have you check the timing with a light? Perhaps the points are not adjusted correctly.

Once the timing is set correctly, then you can adjust the idle settings on the carb. But you have to start with the ignition timing being good first.

The timing bolt on the distributor head is it opposite the bolt that is in the slot down next to the block or is it right underneath the top?

I have checked the timing with a light and it is within a couple of degrees.

The car can be made to run properly with the distributor in any rotational position at all, as long as the sequence of the plug wires is correct and keyed to the rotor position. I'd suggest you go back to basics and check this out.

Pull the distributor cap and crank the engine over briefly to determine the direction of rotation of the rotor. Then pull #1 spark plug and crank the engine until #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke (put you finger over the plug hole to determine which upstroke is compression). Then look at the position of the rotor, #1 spark plug wire should be over the rotor, and the balance of them should be in firing order sequence in the direction of rotor rotation. Firing order 1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4.

I have done this just to make sure. It runs now but is overfueled when at an idle. I have driven it a little bit and when you go to accelerate it will chug a little bit like it is overfueled. I have run the adjusting screws on the carburetor in to where they are only three quarters out. I started at a turn and a half out because that is what the carburetor kit said to do.

Did you do the carb adjustments based on what is called for in the Packard manual? The instructions in the kit are "general" settings and may not be exactly correct for your engine. Also a lot of times those kits fit several different carbs and versions of those carbs. If it's flooding at idle, then it could be a misadjusted carb float.

Try adjusting the idle mixture screws with the engine running at the specified idle rpm. Slowly turn in one of the screws until the engine starts to stumble, then back out until it is running smoothly. Repeat for the other idle screw. You may have to go back and forth between the two idle screws and maybe resetting the idle speed screw until you get a good smooth idle. If you can screw the idle mixture screws in all the way and the engine continues to run, then you probably have a float that is set too high or a leaking needle and seat inlet valve. Sometimes a newly rebuilt carburetor will take a little bit of use in order for it to function properly. Good luck.

(o{I}o)

Thanks for the idea. I will try and adjust the screws.

I tried to adjust the screws and nothing made it run any better. i went and talked to a small engine repair man and he told me that i was getting too much pressure to the carburetor that is why it was overloading really bad. I went and put a gauge on the fuel line and it was reading between twenty five and thirty psi. That could be the problem. When I installed the regulator and got it cut down to about five psi it would sit there and idle forever. just as smooth as could be.