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Chevrolet donor tank was cleaned up.

Cut of original filler.

Cut the hole (1.75") for the new filler location.

Hopefully this will be ready for a leak test in a day or two.

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The cost is based on how much repair is needed to the tank. My tank does not need any holes fixed, or dents removed. So with labor, parts (the coating), and disposal fees and tax it comes out to about $350. I think the majority of the price is the labor in media blasting and coating the tank. Now that is the price here for the shop in Southern Calif. So it may be cheaper in other places.

Check here for a location near you:

gastankrenu.com/loc-dealer.htm

[/quote]...Now that is the price here for the shop in Southern Calif. So it may be cheaper in other places.

Check here for a location near you:

gastankrenu.com/loc-dealer.htm[/quote]

Looks like your shop is the closest one to me.

Keegan,

Just as a by-the-way suggestion. Some old-car filler tubes are nothing but a piece of rubber hose and a couple of big hose clamps. No real need for much fabrication as long as you leave a piece of straight nipple on the donor tank positioned where you can run the hose to the fuel inlet door, and a piece of the original filler neck to receive the other end of the hose.

I happened across this setup on a '47 Dodge I helped rebuild. Dangdest thing, but I'm pretty sure it was original equipment, and no reason it wouldn't work if the hose is of the right material to resist damage from gasoline.

Used the tig welder to braze the filler tube in place. I used silicon bronze filller to help flow into the joint. I plan to also use some kind of sealant on the welded joint.

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Might I suggest #1 (hardening) Permatex for the sealant? Permatex has been very good to me, and you can use the "hardening" type since you won't have any need to allow for disassembly.

Rather than an organic sealant which at best will be only semi-permanent, I'd consider grinding the weld to a radiused filet and filling it with tin/lead solder or silver solder.

IIRC Alcohol will dissolve Permatex.

If there is no INTERNAL support bracket for the filler tube then a triangular gusset welded to the outside mite be apropo.

....and no reason it wouldn't work if the hose is of the right material to resist damage from gasoline.

Best hose IMO to use is the same hose that gasoline delivery tankers use to supply filling stations. When I replaced the pleated brass expansion bellows on my 34 Eight filler neck (the brass had become so work-hardened that it was no longer repairable) I used a section of that hose which had a teflon interior liner, pretty much impervious to any common solvents. You can purchase similar hose by the foot in many diameters from MSC among other sources.

PS - for those of you unfamiliar with the early 30s Packard fuel tanks, here's a pix of the OEM flex joint in the filler neck. Decades of slight flexing finally work-harden the brass so much that it's too brittle for repair. This is the section, between the tank neck and the filler neck in the tail light, that I replaced with the above-mentioned hose. PS - I just hated to abandon this nifty little piece of original engineering but had little choice.

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