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Something i forgot to add last nite:
It is important to do a routine visual inspection of AC systems for any leaks. I do it every six months. Usualy Thanksgiving and Memorial day. It is EZ to do.

Check the service ports for any sign of leakage. There will be an oily residue or a significant sound of pressure release when the service port dust cap is removed.

Check the underside of the hood and sourounding areas of the compressor clutch pully also for any signs of oil. Such signs of oil will appear as a kind of stripe of oil directly in line with the compressor pulley.

Back to the service port:

Wipe a little AC oil across the top of the service port and watch for it to buble up like testing a valve stem on a wheel or tire.

Refrigerant of any type is much too expensive to waste.

The so-called TEST equipment has limited application than what is normaly understood. The problem with dye test equipment is that it will NOT show up for compressor seal leakage unless the clutch and puuley are removed. Simply can not see behind it. The dye is moot point for service port leakage because that is always evident as explained above.

About the only practicle purpose the leak detectors have is for finding leakage at line connexions when there is no evident leakage and to ISOLATE WHICH line connexion is leaking rather than to 'fix' all of them.

It pays to do the 6 month inspection. It's ez and doesn't cost anything and keeps the system well monitored.

THe site glass too.

I mite add that any leakage is rarely ever at a line connexion. the service ports and pump clutch/pulley is where leaks usualy occur.

ALSO BE AWARE that there is a special tool for R+R of service port cores that allows for R+R withOUT loosing refrigerant. The tool is about $50 as of 10 or 12 years ago. Some of them can be a little cumbersome to use but they WORK!!

Pat Green. How is your add on AC project comming along???

Funny you should ask.

We have the pulley, the condenser, the evaporator to hand. The compressor and bracket should arrive SOON. When all parts are in hand, we will endeavor to see which of the many "perfect fits" is somewhat near workable.

Somewhere in all this the shop is fabricating an alternator bracket and a brand spanking new alternator will also be installed.

Then the parts will be installed and I will be cool and even tempered as I drive about. If you have a good extension cord, I can supply (for a price, of course) surplus electricity as we drive.

The only thing that remains unsettled is acquisition of a six bladed fan. The car my pulley came off of had a standard fan, for whatever reason.

I have also acquired a four ring pulley from a sale of Packard parts. Have no idea if it fits, or why it has four grooves, one of which looks thinner than the others.....

Hello,

I purchased my six bladed fan and swing mount from Classic Auto Air. Products are excellent and they good people to deal with.

Jerry

If you're speaking of a 4 groove crankshaft pulley, it may be 53-54. Those have fan/gen and power steering (if equipped) in the regular spots separated by a slight distance and then two more for the compressor.

That time of year again. This has been a very interesting thread. I'm wondering how PatGreen and others are progressing with their AC insallation. Details of every installation as well variations (i'm sure every installation is different)are important.

Anyone??? Post away!!

Nothing too encouraging to report here. Parts are all to hand, but I have been told I require a new windshield due to chips, so waiting for that to arrive and be installed. With it will come a new padded dash at same time. Then and only then do we progress to a/c. Also have two spring tours to do....

At this point, I see the windshield done at the end of the month (May that is) then a/c.

Since we give the appearance of having taken a step forward, we will now back up three--just because.....

My 54 Cavalier has an add-on AC unit, manufacture unknown to me. The evap unit is under the dash, under the glove box and allows enough space to pull out the glove drawer. The control unit is next to the driver with a small connecting flex air hose so the driver gets air and has control.

Under the bonnet they fabricated a substantial bracket that has the compressor on top and a small 12 volt alternator underneath. This all runs off the single belt (fear factor), it does work and the belt doesn't slip or seem to be in distress. (There are six spare belts in the trunk. The belt tension is a little tight for my taste.

The condenser coil is in front of the radiator and invisible, hoses come neatly down the right side splash under the hood and there is a receiver with a sight glass. None of this blocks removing the panels on the splash to get to the engine.

My car has one of those gel type 6 volt batteries along with a motorcycle size 12 volt battery and a special hold down clamp to keep both in the original battery bracket.

The car runs on the original 6 volt system and the only thing on the 12 volt is the AC. The Gel cranks the engine fine especially since I went to proper sized battery cables.

I don't know the manufacture of the AC unit or who put it in or exactly how it's wired up. The ignition switch has to be on to get the air to run so there must be a relay controlling it.

I know when I start the car it takes about three minutes to come on and when I slow down at a stop light the AC goes quite slow.

When I got the car last year the 12 volt battery was stone dead - zero volts. I suspect the battery is not getting connected to the 12 volt charging system.

The unit is a Freon 12 system, I don't know what is actually in it and I feel it needs a charge. Some people run R-414B or R-420A but some of these are incompatible with the rubber seals made for R-12

I live in Phoenix AZ and the unit has been cooling but we have only hit 100 so far this year.

Jim

Your system sounds interesting. There's always people asking for ideas on how others have done their cars. If you feel like posting a few photos of details, am sure all would be appreciated.