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11-10-10

Yesterday, I started by wire brushing (in angle grinder) the brake drum. I also cleaned up the big plate that goes on the brake backing plate. The seal between the spindle and backing plate was torn so I made a new one using compressed gasket material I got from my work. Used the wire brush to clean up the generator. Then I carefully taped off the silver parts and electrical contacts so I could paint it gloss black. Cleaned up the lug bolts with my wire brush also, but I lost my grip on one and it went sailing. Can't find it because it is so dark out now. It will turn up eventually. Painted everything the appropriate colors, using high temp gloss black on the brake drum.

With the paint drying, I reinstalled the starter (less the solenoid).

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11-11-10

Today I took my solenoid to my work and had my maintenance guy re-tap the threads on the post that the battery cable goes to. Seems like it is going to work, I will just have to be really careful not to strip it again.

On my way home from work, I stopped by O'Reillys. I asked about the harness tape and the manager told me that even if I got the part number, that is not something they carry and they would not order it since it was not a "part". So, thanks anyway for your offer Turbopackman, but it looks like I'm stuck ordering it online.

When I got home, I wire brushed (in the angle grinder) the solenoid. I was going to paint it black, but mine was originally silver and the stamp for 6V is on the back still, so I am leaving it wire brushed, but not painted. Reinstalled it on the starter.

Put the generator bracket back on the engine and reinstalled the generator.

I attached the brake line to the old wheel cylinder. Then I reinstalled the wheel cylinder to the brake backing plate.

Installed the new gasket I made on the spindle and put the brake backing plate back on. I reused the big seal that goes between the backing plate and the next plate because it was not damaged. Put the nuts on, but didn't tighten them yet.

I think it is looking pretty good! Come a long way in a short amount of time (I think anyway). I'll put the brake parts back in and the wheel back on. Loosely reattach the fender and I'll be done until next Spring. I'll keep working on the harness and I still might take the carb off for a rebuild this winter.

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Your parts guy sounds like a prick, my local Oreilly's has no issue on ordering anything from their catalogs, as their main warehouses stock the stuff. When I was a parts guy we would do whatever it took to make the customer happy, within reason of course. The part number is a Dorman 85274, 1"X10', $6.99 at my local Oreilly's. Tell the lazy ba$tard it's their house brand and to get off his arse and order it for you! Might need two or three of them, as 10' of tape translates into about 3' of wire coverage.

Thanks Turbo...maybe next time I'm in the area, I'll try again. I'm sure there will be a different person behind the counter who is the "manager for the day". My O'Reilly's is pretty dumpy in a shadier area of town. I really do not have any good parts people here, except at NAPA and there is only one there who was ever helpful.

No problem. I've found that if you get someone else who helps you and orders the part for you it's rather helpful to inform the guy who wouldn't do it for you "that's how parts guy's are supposed to be".

I've had a lot of customers tell people I've worked with that exact same thing.

Wait a minute! I think I saw that tape there before! I didn't think it was the right stuff because it said it was for splices. According to the manufacturers website, the tape fuses to itself, becoming a solid form Dorman Products. The links HH56 provided said the tape could be undone and retaped. I'm not sure which would be the right one to use now! If it worked for you Turbo and it didn't make the harness too stiff, I guess I will be OK. Thanks again!

Yeah, that's the stuff. It can be undone and redone, if done not too long after you do it. I haven't tried to undo mine as of late because I have it where I want it. And I wouldn't say that it isn't stiff, it's kinda stiff, but I also am using heavier wire than was originally used on my car. Mainly because I don't like to have to do things twice.

11-14-10

D'oh! So I'm putting the brake back together so I won't lose any parts and it is not working. Where did that pin go on top to hold the springs? Why isn't the star wheel lining up with the access hole? Why aren't the pads going back far enough to connect with the wheel cylinder arms?

The answer is....I put the backing plate on inside out!

Took it all apart and turned it around (there's that pin!). Tightened the bolts up. Put the shoes and springs back in with the spring clamp on the retaining pins.

Next I greased the wheel bearings and put the drum back on. Put the outer wheel bearing in and washer. Tightened the castle type nut to tight and then backed it off to the first slot where a cotter pin could be inserted. Lastly, the grease cap went on.

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I think it looks great!
If I ever decide to tackle my '51s brakes and such I certainly know where there is a play by play to go to thanks to you.
I just really wonder though, if you'll really be able to keep your hands off it until Spring.

11-14-10 continued...

Once the wheel was sorted out, I started to look around and put misc. parts back on so I wouldn't loose them. The distributor was put back in without being painted and I kept it loose. Reattached the distributor cap, coil and spark plug wires. Hooked the metal tube back up that goes from the distributor to the carb. Moved the generator bracket down and reattached the bolt to it.

Once I was pretty sure that I had put everything back on, I put the fender back on, using only the upper bolt on the cowl and the two bolts that attach to the radiator support. That will do for now, since it will come back off in the Spring to redo the brake lines.

That should be it except for working on the harness. I'm about 1/2 way done with that. Most of the main runs are done. Now is the smaller connections between bulbs and switches.

Not too many left over parts...a split washer, regular washer and some large rubber washers. I believe these go on the fender somewhere, perhaps as an insulator to prevent rubbing. Not sure where they go exactly though.

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