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12-28-10

Ross, what an awesome tip! I had no idea you could use steel wool on chrome. I picked up some 00 grade and it worked like a charm. Super fast, easy to use and clean up was a snap. No digging in corners trying to get polishing compound out. Thanks! I can't wait to try it on my bumpers!

My clock woes continue. I have it all cleaned and oiled with clock oil, but it is not working right. After I wind it, it will not start unless I manually move the pendulum wheel to get it going. Then in the middle of a run, it will stop. I noticed that the gap I used to have between the face and the hour hand is gone. Maybe it is dragging on the face and stopping the clock? Those two tabs on the side that broke could be allowing too much movement too. I tried to tape them down to see if there is a difference, but it didn't help. I may have to disassemble again and just glue everything together. This clock may be too messed up now to save.

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1-1-11

I'm calling the clock project done. So even though I cleaned it with the proper cleaner and used clock oil, I cannot get the clock to start after being wound or run a full cycle without stopping. I looked through some of the pictures I took when I took it apart and noticed a small washer. Found the washer so now I know it is not in the clock!

Took the minute hand off again. This time I used the front part of my crimping pliers and the hand pulled off with the mushroom shaped holder (I had previously glued them together). Then I took off the hour hand. Noticed right away a small circle around the center hole of the clock face, same size as the washer. That explains why my hour hand did not have a proper gap from the face.

While I was in there, I decided to glue the face back together. I took it apart and put a small drop of glue at each point the tabs were at. Then I put the clock back together with the washer in it's proper place.

Even though I now had all the proper clearances, the clock would still not run properly. Now I have deviated from all of the correct advice and went with what worked originally for my clock. I turned to the PB Blaster again. This time I was very careful and used only a couple of squirts. I also immediately used compressed air to blow out any access. After that, the clock would run right after being wound and finishes a full cycle.

So I put the clock back in the instrument cluster. At this point, I'm happy it is just back together. I figure if it works when I put it back, I'll be ahead of the game. If not, I won't worry about it until later down the road.

If it's working on it's own, even if it eventually gets gunked up again, it will be a log while. Likely, it will be a decade or more with the cover on it and being parked inside and kept clean before the clock can have a failure from dirt. I think it's pretty safe to say you have it working for a long while. Looking great!

Thanks for the complement cortcomp. I'm amazed at how much better the instrument cluster looks now. I sure hope the clock fires up when I install it in the car after all of this!

1-5-11

Not much to report. I have finally reclaimed my dining room table/workbench so I'm back at the harness. Very hard to get back into it since I had to move the harness around and have not looked at it for a long time. Trying to reorient myself with the layout and which wires I had already done. Luckily, I have been labeling everything and marking off the done wires on the wire list in the electrical diagram.

Anyone know the colors for the power antenna? I do not see it listed in the electrical diagram, or the one that BigKev recreated for his '54. Maybe it is so obvious I am looking over it?

Also took the switch off the door jamb on the passenger side. I was curious how it came off and it was very easily pried out. Eventually, I will take it apart and clean it up because one of the switches was sticking and keeping the courtesy lights from coming on. I didn't want to do the drivers side one yet because I have some very old oil change labels on there that I would like to preserve somehow. Not sure how to do it though.

I ordered the harness tape that HH56 found for me (the e-bay one). I have been thinking about it and it seems like the best one since it meets GM OEM requirements. The one Turbo suggested would have been convenient, but a lot more expensive and it doesn't sound like it is the same thing.

I don't think there are colors for antenna in those years--at least Packard didn't mention them. Here's their official instructions.

One thing I would do differently would be add an inline fuse & holder in the motor feed wire they have you connect to ign switch. Everything fed directly off the ignition switch is unprotected. It's interesting they added inline fuse holders for some options off the switch like radio, heater, but nothing for antenna, and some of the dash lights.

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The wires from the switch to the Antenna are black, and black with a red tracer. The wires are molded together like a cord and come out of the antenna motor (hardwired), and plug into the switch with bullet connectors.

So basically the wires should already be there and coming out of your antenna motor.

Thanks guys...I wasn't sure what an original looks like since my wire is so dark, I couldn't tell. Looks to be about 12 gauge so I will use that. Good idea HH56. That is the wire I was going to do next, the one that goes from the ignition switch to the power antenna switch. I'll have to hunt some fuse holders down. The ones I have are a thinner wire, maybe 16 gauge. I'll have to find some more that are heavier duty. Maybe Autozone or Radio Shack.

I figure I will try to do it right even though my antenna is non-functioning. The tube that holds the nylon insert is rotted away and the motor is full of white powder. Don't know if I can make a new tube and/or fix the motor. That's for another day.

1-6-11

Found a little time to fix the door switch. I bent the 4 tabs on the back and the parts came right out. Back plate has a copper arm on it, then there was a large spring. The black post was last with a copper washer with 4 contact points on it.

Cleaned all of the parts with my new favorite cleaning tool...#00 grade steel wool! Worked perfect.

After cleaning I put a thin coat of dielectric grease in the main housing and some drops on the 4 contact points on the copper washer. Also put a drop on the end of the copper arm on the back plate. Pushed it all back together and rebent the tabs to hold it all in place.

Tested it for movement and it went smoothly. Also checked the switch with my multimeter and it read a compete circuit with the button out and open circuit with it pushed in. This one shouldn't cause any problems now.

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Looks Beautiful!
I need to do the same thing with my '55 at the driver's door and both rear door switches. I think the driver's side on my '51 needs attention as well but it's been so long since I've seen it I can't remember. I told the shop to take all the time they needed and I guess they took me at my word! Having to replace the credit cards I THOUGHT I'd lost put a crimp in things too. Of course I found them as soon as I'd canceled them.
Thanks for the step by step pictures too. I'd been a little leery to tear into them but now - no fear!