Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Just be sure that whatever pull method you use does not mess up the threads or distort the end of the shaft. If you do the nut will not thread back on and will require a rethread. While having to do that is a pain and takes time it is not a show stopper. Tinman ran into the situation in his car where someone had damaged the shaft. He found an axle rethreading kit which contains the correct rethread die for the steering shaft threads. The kit and thread info is in his project blog.

Howard - Thank you!! That's the information I was looking for but seemed to be absent from the manual. Having never done this before it's nice to have a step-by-step to walk me through it. I'll check with the local auto parts stores to see if they have a puller that works. I talked to a guy yesterday who works at one and he said they should. If not, then I'll order the one from Amazon.

The diagram is very helpful also. Once I get access to the switch I will get it all cleaned up and hopefully that will restore function.


Paul - the header is tacked into place in a couple spots, but we ran out of welding wire and time (picture below). Then with Labor Day and my friend's house being threatened by wildfire, he hasn't been able to make it back over for a couple weeks. I'm cautiously hoping that we can get the rest of the welding done this Monday. It's a very slow and arduous process. If I were to do it over again I probably would've just replaced the entire roof like Don suggested early in the thread.


Wes - Good to know about a second option. Shouldn't be hard to get a puller, and the one shown was pretty inexpensive.

-Kevin

Attach file:

---

  (72.69 KB)

NAPA didn't have the bulbs I need for the under dash light and two rear pillar lights. The only bulb that was still in those sockets was a #210, and it doesn't light even though power is going to the sockets. So I'm still on the hunt for something that will work in those areas.

Since they didn't have the bulbs and I haven't gotten a puller yet for the steering wheel, I tackled another small job last night that was on my list. The chrome on the inside of the car was faded, tarnished and dirty. And someone in the past had covered much of the chrome with a sort of fake wood vinyl sticker.

I removed the vinyl by carefully warming it up with a heat gun, then peeling it off. I used Goo Gone to clean up the left over adhesive. I then used a product called Nevr-Dull to clean up and polish the chrome (https://www.autozone.com/wash-cleaners-and-exterior-care-products/polish/eagle-one-original-nevr-dull-wadding-metal-polish-5oz/556779_0_0. I've never used the stuff before and was curious to see what it could do. It's a wadding material that is damp with some sort of cleaner, non abrasive. I tore off a small piece and gently scrubbed all the chrome, following up with a clean microfiber towel.

The horn ring, which was so tarnished and dull that there was zero reflection of light, cleaned up surprisingly well. I'm happy with the reflection now.

I cleaned up the rest of the now-visible chrome on the steering wheel and column. So much better. Now I need to figure out how to clean and polish the horn button and bring back it's luster.

This job was not important to getting the car back on the road, but with the limited time I had last night it was about all I could do. Plus sometimes it's nice to get an easy job done to keep the momentum going.

-Kevin

Attach file:

---

  (73.92 KB)


  (93.14 KB)


  (111.30 KB)

If you mean the under dash courtesy light in the round domed fixtures, those should be an 82 according to the owners manual. Not sure if it was just that particular local store that did not carry either of them but Napa still lists both so should be available.

Attach file:

---

  (34.47 KB)


  (45.56 KB)

Howard - There's supposed to be a round dome over the under dash light? Mine just has a bare socket directly underneath the center dash. There are no sockets on the corners of the dash.

From what it looks like, the same bulb should be used for the rear pillar lights. If they have #82's I'll pick those up and try them out.

-Kevin

Bare exposed bulbs that could be hit and broken were not the usual even in Clippers but having said that I guess anything is possible -- or maybe the cover was lost.

Don't think the bulbs are interchangeable. The 82 is 6cp and the 210 is 15 cp but aside from illumination the bigger issue is the pin location. The 82 pin appears to be in line with the contacts while the 210 has it at 90 degrees so the electrical connection would not be made if an 82 was in the 210 socket or vice versa.

Kevin, the NeverDull is good stuff, but this is my personal favorite for chrome:

Attach file:

---

  (27.75 KB)

Alright, I need some guidance here. I've got the steering wheel off, cleaned up turn signal switch as best I could without taking the whole thing apart. I swapped the flasher base with NAPA 535 (for 6 volt) and confirmed the pins matched the schematic. I turned the key to accessory and got flashing turn signals on both sides. It was slower on the passenger side.

However, that only worked for a minute or two. Now nothing. All lights still work off the headlight switch, other previously working accessories work. What happened here??

-Kevin

The original TungSol flashers were fully thermal operated with relay contacts while the 535 is a hybrid. If you are still running positive ground the 535 will not flash the dash indicator because that lamp is driven by a transistor in the flasher which is the wrong type for positive ground. It will generally work the outside lights though because those are still worked by a thermal element in the flasher.

You might verify if you have power just to rule out any breaker or fuse issues. Also check out the grounds and any inline splice connections to all the light housings. Sometimes power flowing thru a bad connection will make the problem worse to the point of failure. The thermal element needs to see very close to the design spec resistance in the total circuit for it to maintain flashing. Even though you cleaned the switch that could still be the issue. If voltage and connections are OK it is possible the transistor was damaged by the wrong polarity and is loading the circuit enough that the thermal element cannot cycle or maybe even though new, the flasher just failed.

Here is a comparison of the two types of flashers. The top is the earlierTung-Sol with screw terminals rather than tabs but the internal parts are essentially identical.

Attach file:

---

  (37.77 KB)

Howard - the dash lights did actually work, or at least partly. The driver's side flashed in time with the outside, but the passenger side dash light barely lit, while the driver's side remained flashing. Weird.

On your diagram you showed it says the the 535 can't be used without changing the transistor. Where is that and what do I replace it with?

The car had the original 229D on it, but the flashers never worked so I assumed it was bad. I still have the old flasher.

I'll start going through the lights and cleaning up the grounds. Probably playing a part in it.