Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Thanks Jim...I used to be afraid to tear into things, especially electrical. Once I took out all the wires, there was no turning back. You learn a lot about these and cars in general when you are in there getting your hands dirty. The switch was easy compared to my clock issues (which I mostly created). At least now people know what not to do! I have had a lot of fun with this project. Love seeing things clean up so nicely.

1-9-11

Got a lot done on the harness. Most of it is done. The hardest part, and most painful, is cutting the plastic off the connectors. Man do my finger tips hurt! That's the main reason I am stopping for today. I need a break!

I decided to reuse as much of the old parts as possible. That means I am reusing the flasher & socket, all of the bulb sockets, the special connector for the directional signals, and even the in line fuse holders. I have been looking for a new one to put in the power antenna circuit, but haven't found one large enough yet.

I do not solder very well, so to save the parts, I just cut the wires close to the socket and used a butt connector. I figured that will be OK, since the metal is not the problem with the old wires, it is the insulation. Then I put heat shrink on the exposed connection and down to cover any of the still exposed old insulation. I also cleaned up the sockets with steel wool to ensure good connections.

I was going to replace all of the bulbs, but they look OK. I am just missing a couple. Where are you guys special ordering your bulbs at? Napa? I doubt Autozone would do it for me.

I noticed a metal tube attached by a wire to my ignition switch. I do not see it in the wire diagram. Anyone know what it is and will it be OK to reuse it?

Attach file:

---

  (161.13 KB)


  (139.39 KB)


  (72.07 KB)


  (64.29 KB)


  (62.71 KB)

My car had the same capacitor attached to the ignition. I believe this was added when models had radios installed to reduce ignition causing interference.

Thanks BigKev...I'll replace the wire up to the capacitor and reuse it.

1-22-11

Finally got the wire harness done! My wife will be very happy that she gets her table back.

I got really hung up by the last wire I had to do. It was #2 Red with green tracer. The wire diagram and wire chart said it was supposed to go from the starter to the 30 amp fuse on the instrument cluster. I kept retracing the old wire (the only one I had left) and it was not going anywhere near the starter wires. Finally realized that it actually goes to the battery side of the voltage regulator. Not sure if the chart is wrong or they changed the wiring after my car was made and noted it in the diagram that way. I know my wiring is original and being the way it was under the harness wrap, I know it has not been changed. Shouldn't matter where it goes though, because both are feeds from the battery. Anyway, it's done and all wires are accounted for, whether they were in the harness or still in the car.

Thanks again to HH56. The tape he recommended worked perfectly and the ability to unroll it again if necessary came in useful on more than one occasion.

If I were to do this again, I would have been more careful noting where the different wires split from the main harness. I think I got it down to OEM, except for the portion under the dash. That part got confusing with so many wires and I know it's not exactly the same. Maybe some different colored tape to denote the "arms" of the harness.

My next project was going to be to rebuild the carb, but the car has a lot of snow on it now and the gas smell would stink up the house. Maybe I will try my hand at getting the power antenna to work.

Attach file:

---

  (124.81 KB)


  (118.64 KB)


  (112.81 KB)


  (141.84 KB)


  (175.60 KB)

Charles,

Congratulations on a terrific DIY job. I for one wouldn't even think about attempting what you did. A great achievement.

I don't think I would either after seeing the top of your dining room table! It is absolutely intimidating looking at it. My hat's off to you for riding it out to completion.
You're lucky to have a wife that will put up with that!
Great job!

Kudos to you AND your wife. Keep that gal whatever you do.
Nice job which is very tedious and trying.
Congratulations!

Thanks for the complements guys. I have to admit that I thought it was going to be easy, that is until the wrap came off the old harness and all those wires were everywhere. Very tedious and glad it is over. Hopefully I didn't make any wires too short!

1-24-11

Decided it would be easier to reattach the wires and bulbs to the instrument cluster now, instead of when it is in the car.

After that, I put it in the garage and noticed my power antenna sitting there so I thought I might as well pull the trigger and make it my next project.

When taking the wires out of the car, I noticed the wires from the antenna to the switch were cut. That is not the problem though because the motor still does not work when hooked up directly to the battery.

I don't know if it can be salvaged or not. The tube that holds the nylon tube that moves the antenna mast up and down is separated from the motor housing from rot. I had some trouble trying to get this thing apart.

At first, I concentrated on the top of the motor, removing the screws and making enough room to move the cover off. This revealed the two gears that rotate with the nylon tube in between to move the antenna mast.

Then I removed the gear section which revealed the top of the motor. Looks pretty nasty. There is an insulating plate on top of that that I tried to pry up, but only one side would come up. There appear to be 3 screws at the bottom of the motor that are frozen to the housing. I tried to get them out, but the slotted screws started to strip. I guess my next step is to drill them out unless someone can think of another way. Not sure PB Blaster would be of much help.

I did peak under the insulating plate and the motor itself is covered in white gunk. Looks really bad in there.

I thought the nylon tube detached from the mast somehow, but my limited attempts were not getting me very far. Then I pulled the nylon tube really hard and was able to move the nylon in the gears. I kept pulling and eventually the nylon tube came out from the end of the metal loop. Easier to examine now.

Attach file:

---

  (118.03 KB)


  (167.59 KB)


  (43.29 KB)


  (52.03 KB)


  (103.61 KB)


  (58.48 KB)


  (73.08 KB)


  (73.10 KB)