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The parts book, and the wiring diagram dont list the amperage on that breaker, but I saw some threads here where it was 30 Amps.8ball HD shop
Looks like that is a part used by Harley Davidson, which makes it easy to get over here.
Does this look like the right breaker?

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Yes.

In most but not all years, bulb and fuse information can be found in the owners manuals. Here is the info from the 53 manual.

I don't know if you had need to change fuses in any of your cars but remember Packard used SFE type fuses in most locations. Those fuses are size specific to a particular amperage and holders are designed to fit only the size fuse called for.

In most cases modern glass fuses are a consistent size and many commonly available modern fuses will not fit in the holders Packard used. You may need to also change a holder if you cannot find a particular SFE size fuse in Europe.

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Tobs
I know on this side of the pond the external dimensions of such circuit breakers are controlled by some regulatory group . . . perhaps SAE, but it could be an electrical society . . . they’re all the same. If you care to buy from a US based electrical supplier and have them shipped to you that might be a lower cost option, but I doubt it. I don’t believe the HD items are in anyway ‘special’, and the linked website suggests the manufacturer is Standard Motor Products a US based company. Pay attention to the copper color / silver color binding posts. Copper = Power Input, Silver = Load. It’s all about safety. If the movable portion of the circuit breaker somehow touches the outer case during activation, and the outer case is grounded, if that side of the CB is connected to the load it’s a non-issue. However, if the movable portion, now because of errant motion is touching ground, that would be a direct short if that post is connected to power. Harley shop manuals clearly state the polarity of the CB, but not why they are connected that way.
dp

Here's an outer envelope drawing and performance curves. Note the time delay.

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Thanks guys! The part I ordered from a local harley place is supposed to be a "Standard electric" supplied part. Hope that means made in USA (or Mexico)
The third source I checked was the owners manual (just like Howard posted) and agree on the 30 amp rating.

I was talking about this with a friend of mine who is an electrical engineer, and he reminded me that the H4 headlights that I have are 60 Watts each, compared to the sealed beams, which are 45 Watts each.
I estimate 20 Watts for 4 taillights and license plate light, plus 10 Watts for the Instrument panel.
That totals 120 Watts with sealed beams, and 150 Watts with the h4 lights... at 6volts that makes 19.3 amps for the original lighting, and 25 amps with my H4 bulbs.
The 30 amp circuit breaker is well chosen for a 20 amp nominal circuit, but does not have much safety margin when I am pulling 25 amps because of my "modern" headlights.
First I will clean the switch, replace the circuit breaker, and likely swap in a new high beam switch, but in the long run, (in the next few months) I think relays may get installed. I already noted the plans that were posted in some other threads....I just would like something that looks original-ish.
Plastic relays are a fashion faux-pas, I guess horn relays could work and look original, or I just hide modern relays someplace.

Correction: horn relays won't work. Maybe I can find metal housed modern relays at least.

With the extra current going thru the headlight and dimmer switch along with the extra length of marginally sized wire headlight power takes for that route, I would be tempted to add relays sooner. Not only would they save wear and tear on the old switches but if the relay contacts were fed directly by a heavier gauge wire the lights would probably be a tad brighter. You could run a dedicated length of 10ga from the relays back to the starter solenoid or, IMO, a less satisfactory but easier option on your year would be to add a wire to the BAT terminal on the horn relay and use the already existing 12 ga run feeding the horns. Power the headlights thru a separate CB and the relays using the almost direct run horn supply. Without the load of the tail and dash lights a separate 30 amp breaker would probably still be OK for just the headlights.

Using horn relays will not work because one side of the coil is already connected to the BAT input so needs a ground on the S terminal to energize those relays. There may be some of the old metal power types available on ebay.

If you did want to use modern, you could mount plastic relays with sockets on a subplate module something like I did for my 47 and 56. Hide the module and relays under the battery tray. or mount low on the radiator cradle where it could kind of blend in. 47 only has one terminal strip but because there is a second junction strip and wires in the main loom for the right side headlight on 51-56 models, you would also need to power that right headlight directly from the relay module.

In order to power both lights on my 56 I added a second out of sight terminal strip on the right radiator cradle leg and made a loom to go across in front of the radiator to get to the terminal strip on the relay module which I mounted on left side. Removed the wires to the right bucket from the original strip and added them to the new strip.

Here is a circuit I did and photos of a module made to take advantage of existing holes and space in a 47. Wire colors are also 47. Yours would be different but you could do something along the same lines customizing it to depend on where you chose to mount the relays.

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Thanks Howard, I am slowly collecting all the parts I will need. Relays, cable, terminals etc. As usual, it will take a while, but I'll do something nice for my Carib.
In other news, I realized the wide Band O2 sensor can be used when connected to an Extertal 12v battery. Now I can see how my carb is jetted. It is a 327 4bbl on a 359, but I think it will be pretty close.

Using a 12v battery to Power my LM-2 wideband oxygen sensor I was able to take some data today on my way to and from work about the air fuel ratio from my 4bbl carb....my idle was set at just about stoich, maybe a tiny bit lean compared to what it should be. That shows up in that the light throttle cruising is also stoich, or a little lean. Under Power, the carb richenes the mixture up to a nice 0.8 lambda, which is also pretty good. All in all, the WCFB with jetting that was originally for the 327 does a very fine job on the 359 engine. I can also report that the wideband sensor running on 12v negative ground works fine on a car with 6v positive ground. (Should anybody also want to run modern test and tune Equipment on their 6v packard)
A well sorted carb works quite well!