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Dave makes a good point. Unless the ammeter got slammed with high current and the needle support pegged & needle or shaft was somehow bent there isn't much that needs calibration. If the generator is putting out volts but very low current that might keep the battery up with just the engine load. Once you start using the high current draw items simultaneously is where you would see the no charge condition.

You can check for volts as was mentioned but I don't think an ordinary VOM will have the capacity to see what the generator is putting out in current. If you can get ahold of a clamp on meter that can read DC then that would work. If not you might have to take it somewhere that has charging system test equipt.

Yes, checking the charging system with an external ammeter would be best but you can obtain a pretty reliable test with a voltmeter. Connect the meter to the battery and start the car and let it idle, you should see something around 6.2 - 6.4 volts. Turn on the headlights and perhaps the heater, it will probably drop to less than 6 volts and the dash ammeter should be negative about 15 amps. Now with the lights still on increase the engine speed to very healthy fast idle (at least 1500 rpm); voltage at the battery should increase to at least 7 volts and the ammeter should move to a positive value.

My 47 had a similar problem showing no discharge at idle, but after turning on the lights showing a discharge, all while the engine was running. I replaced the voltage regulator and its working like a champ now.
Also checkout this web site:books.google.com/books?id=X-MDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA181&dq=B+Circuit+popular+mechanics&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CCUQ6AEwAGoVChMI-cTqtN-TyQIVgVEmCh2F0Qf6#v=onepage&q=B%20Circuit%20popular%20mechanics&f=false
Wes

Ken - Heater shut-off valves are generally available at auto supply stores. They are 3/8" pipe thread for the connection to the head and have a 5/8" or 3/4" nipple for the hose connection. Modern ones may vary a little in style than those originally fit.

(o{}o)

Heater control valve removed from the cylinder head of a 356 engine and I'm assuming it was original to the car though I've also seen some where the outlet was not horizontal but canted up at perhaps 20? or so. As someone has already noted nearly identical units are standard items at better plumbing and auto supply houses.

If they need servicing for leakage at the stem you simply repack the gland around the stem with standard plumber's packing cord. I don't recommend Telfon, it doesn't as easily conform to the cavity and the stem. If they fail to shut off completely you can disassemble and resurface the seat and stem end. Some folks seem inclined to install them both at the water pump and the cylinder head, either will suffice of course to stop the flow to the heater core and I believe the factory fitment was a single on the cylinder head.

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Hi Ken,
Did you get your problem with the charging system fixed? If not on the 47 Packards if you jumper the Field wire to Ground and the Amp Meter displays Maxium reading then it's the Voltage Regulator,but don't hold it there very long. Or better yet just buy a Voltage Regulator and if it doesn't fix the problem you will have a spare for later, because they do go bad.
Wes

Wes, I'd be interested to know but I'm not certain that the field-grounding test is applicable to cars that don't have full generator controls; the '37 has amperage control via a 3rd brush and just have a cutout and voltage control - not a modern style regulator. I suppose I could try it on my own car but I don't have the courage but next time I chat with Jason at AER I'll ask him.

Owen, good point that's why I reference my 47 which is a two brush system, but I did find this atyesterdaystractors.com/articles/artint4.htm
The purpose of the 3rd brush is to control the generators output. This is done by grounding the 3rd brush and field coil. It is directly grounded when full charge is required and uses a resistor to ground for a lower charge.
But I would also like to hear from Jason's because I only know what I read and try myself.
Wes

I inspected the ammeter closely today. With the car idling, there was a very slight positive rate (apparently I wasn't reading the gage accurately before). Battery voltage was 6.8 or so. I turned on the headlights and heater, battery voltage dropped to 6.2 volts. With the engine revved up, voltage went back to around 7.0-7.2 volts. With the engine at high RPM and lights and heater off, voltage got up to 7.5 to 7.8 volts. So, apparently all is well, and I should just learn how to read the gage.

I did get a NORS AutoLite generator to replace the modern Echlin model currently bolted on the firewall.

I also got the garage re-arranged so that I can walk around the car with the garage door shut. The extra 5" of wheelbase made it required that I re-arrange the whole place. It will be nice when I am not moving every few years and can just have one shop.

One thing I thought of recently: what, if anything, should I do to protect the car over the winter? I am mostly talking about paint and interior- it will be stored in a garage, but my garage isn't insulated or heated. Do I need to do anything special?

Ken, perhaps the reason why you are seeing a slight + at idle is because your idle speed is a bit high. Typically at idle you see a slight discharge = to the draw of the coil (a couple of amps max) because the speed is a bit too low for the generator to have output. Not that it really matters too much.

I too store in an uninsulated freestanding garage for 4 months or so. I have a wool interior so I use mothballs, a good coat of wax on the interior plating, Windows shut and a couple of desicant bags. Mechanically, fresh oil, antifreeze every other year, a few extra psi in the tires, battery disconnected. Also I fog the engine internals with a little oil down the intake and plug the tailpipe, breather, draft tube and air horn with baggies. When the temps get around zero I'll put the trickle charger on the battery for a few hours perhaps once a month.