Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

That looks like one big ass bolt too! Sans marvel... I'd use atf.... That's basically what marvel is anyways. Even though it is a "mystery"

Thanks BDC for the radiator photo, 34 and back had a pass-thru hole in the bottom radiator tank aligned with the damper and crank hole cover for insertion of the crank. Last year for that arrangement.

Hi John,
You could jack up the rear of the car and put it in top gear and try to turn the wheel back and forth. It may be that you have stuck valves that the camshaft can't lift. Try squirting some penetrene down the plug holes and leave it for a day or so.
Regards Pepe Packard

Thanks all,

I tried five shops today for something similar to Marvel's Mystery Oil to no avail, but I did buy some new spanners and sockets.

I'm happy to accept the consensus of ATF (or Penetrene, which I can get from the local Blackwoods branch) and patience. Aiming to pour one or the other into the cylinders on Tuesday evening.

In the interim, I'll get the inlet hose fixed or replicated by a local hydraulics service, and I'll place enquiries for a fuel filter rebuild kit.

Thanks again, and watch this space. :)

@pepepackard: wouldn't it be easier to put the car in gear and try to rock it back and forward instead of putting it on jackstands?

Though folks attribute miraculous properties to ATF and Marvel Mystery oil, neither is a rust penetrant which, if the problem is rings rusted to the cylinder walls, is what you want to add thru the spark plug holes and allow to "soak" down to the rings. I really strongly recommend a rust penetrant, PB Blaster, Kroil, or even Liquid Wrench. Kroil is probably the gold standard.

kanolabs.com/msn/

Interesting, and thanks again.

Unfortunately many American products are simply not available down here; including Kroil. Scouring the web, I found this on (of all places) a BMX restoration site:

"Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ...................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price."

Source:ozbmx.com.au/index.php?/topic/9890-kroil-super-penetrant/

I can get both acetone and ATF locally and cheaply... so that looks like the leading option at this stage.

I had a chat with an experienced local automotive machinist yesterday, he suggested using something like this to have a look inside the cylinders:supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/produ ... -7m.aspx?pid=339092#Recommendations

For only $70 it seems worth a try, and I'm sure it will be handy for other applications. A 10mm camera head should fit down my spark plug sockets; I think the spark plugs are 14mm thread? The camera is only 640x480 pixels, so low resolution. I would value opinions; if I get a clear camera view of the top of the cylinders and pistons, will it help to diagnose what's going on in there?

Thanks in advance, as always, for your collective advice. :)

Cheers, John

I have an older inspection camera with its own tiny built in screen which works very well for what you are looking to do. I don't remember the resolution but expect as old as it is probably VGA too. The USB version should do equally well if not better as long as the software and adjustable light control function works well. That is one unknown that could mess up a good idea. With mine the illumination needs to be just right or the camera sensor is over or undersaturated. Detail is quite good when the light is correct but without a good reference or perspective of what you are looking at it can get confusing with such a small field of view or bit of information..

Am surprised the Australian Amazon site seems so limited in what it offers but maybe you have another site or outlet with more selections available. There are many different USB camera systems on the USA Amazon site including some with hi def or hi resolution cameras available for less money than the one you linked.

John,

Going by my mate Wade's experience with this type of equipment when he bought something similar to have a look inside his '37 Super 8 engine, essentially the same as your '35 Eight, I advise some caution before purchase. Wade found that although the head of his fitted down the spark plug hole the head has to make a sharp 90 degree turn as soon as it enters the combustion chamber in order to inspect the piston and cylinder. There's not much room for this manouevre and can be further complicated because it's a flathead engine and the plug hole is directly above a valve which may be open or partly open. My advise is to check the flexibility of the head and the section of cable immediately behind the head. A further factor to be taken into consideration is the depth of the combustion chamber at the point where the plug hole is. Don't know what it is but it's not much! Others may be able to advise a specific depth? So before you buy a device, which may only give you a good view of the top of a valve and little more, please ensure it's flexibility is sufficient for your purposes.

Actually I just remembered something that might mess up your plans at looking at the cylinder. You may need to confirm the piston will be visible before ordering a camera. Make sure the plug hole is not over a valve. I seem to recall the opening is not directly over the piston on those engines. .\

EDIT: Mal beat me to the same concern so definitely need to check access first.