Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

One thing that the underside view is somewhat useful for is allowing us to roughly judge if the head has been previously resurfaced, and if so, we could make a qualitative judgement of how much by the remaining shape and size of the combustion chamber.

A bit hard to see the detail but the other views of the combustion chamber details might give depth measurements which would allow a more quantitative evaluation.

The finish machined overall height is given as 2.00 inches. Will be rushing out to the shed to measure mine.

This might be clearer as a PDF file. Take a look.......

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A little different take on the aluminum head:

I purchased aluminum head many years ago form a guy who had it polished to a mirror shine. When the time came to install it, it was so beautiful that I couldn't bear to paint it.

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That polished head is cool. That will be my next project. Does anyone know if that Edmunds Packard head on various forums a long while back was in fact for a 359? I attached some pictures including a head that is for sale out there. That head looks like it has about $500 in damage if you look at the crumbled areas. I guess that can be welded? Another cost would be $700 for pressure test plates. The plates can be used to stress the block, honing and applying a sealer no?

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Not to change subject but is that a 6v optima battery ??

Does anyone know which wire (color) to tap into for the rear brake/stop light for a third brake light?

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The brake lights and turn signals use the same wire so you will not be able to run a single bulb third brake light by connecting to the wires in the trunk. Connecting to one side individually will light the third brake light but then the light will also flash with the turn signal from that side. Connecting to both sides at the same time would short the turn signal circuit and no flashing. Depending on the type bulb used, the extra resistance in the third light circuit could also affect the flashing if the car still has the old thermal type flasher.

You can use a single bulb light if you tap into the wire coming directly off the brake switch before it goes into the turn signal switch. That would be the green wire coming out of the brake light switch. Under the dash it would be the green wire at the round 6 pin (in 54) plug connecting to the turn signal switch. The connector is behind the dash bottom edge usually within about 6" from the steering column.

Another alternative is to use two bulbs, each wired to one side. That will duplicated the action of the brake lights with both bulbs on for brakes but during a turn one of the third bulbs would be on and the other would flash. In the trunk you would find the short brown and yellow wires that come out of the body loom. The same brown and yellow wires are also at the turn signal plug if you wanted to keep inside the car. The brown body loom wire connects to an inline connector near the left taillight and the loom continues across to the right where you would find the yellow wire. The wires may change colors at the connectors before going into the individual sockets.

If you can tolerate a bit of modern look, there is a fairly small commercial narrow strip LED third light some have used which could mount behind the rear window. Their light can work individually with one steady and one flashing side and can also be used without the flashing by connecting directly to the brake light switch wire.brakelighter.com You can download their instructions which gives an overview and various methods of wiring.

Here is a drawing of the brake and turn signal circuit.

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Thanks Howard. I'm on it.

TC

This is what I picked up online from Brakelighter.com

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