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I get it now, Howard and Don. It's like setting up a clock with 6 at the top and 12 at the bottom. It tells the correct time, but most people don't do it that way.

Excellent analogy Joe, right on target!

As long as you're willing to accept plug wires walked around the cap to new positions and the distributor body in a different position than shown in the service literature, you can correctly time with any oil pump engagement. But not necessarily true universally for all engines.

I did remove the oil pump, I reinstalled it with the dot on top. It was difficult to know for sure if I moved the gear. I set the timing at 6 degree btdc
Now the rotor is right at 6 o'clock. Now what? Do I start my #1 wire there and install the rest in order? I'm just not sure. Help would be appreciated.

Try once more while you are at it. You want the pump set so the rotor is at 7 o'clock when the engine is at the 7 degree timing mark--this will leave the dist in a more advantageous and also standard position.

Here is the procedure I use with good success:

1)Get your oil pump set as noted above.

2) Remove the #1 sparkplug and lay a penny over the hole. Bump the engine over till the penny starts to float up and then continue on to to the 7 degree mark.

3) make certain the rotor is pointed at 7 o'clock and not 1 o'clock. It will go either way so just pull the dizzy out and change it if need be. Vac chamber should be pointing straight forward. Leave the adjustment loose.

4)Push the vac chamber down somewhat and grab your multimeter. Set that to beep mode for checking continuity. You should have continuity (ie points closed) between the terminal on the side of the dist and ground.

5) With the meter still attached, now rotate the dist slowly CW JUST until the beeping stops. The points have just opened and this is the firing point. Tighten down the dist adjustment.

6) Note the position of the rotor again, install your cap and place wire #1 over the rotor. Proceed 1-6-2-5-8-3-7-4 CCW around the cap as that is the direction the rotor turns on these engines.

7) install your coil wire and vac line. If everything has been brought to standard condition the vac chamber will point just about straight forward.

8) Fire her up and recheck the timing. If you are careful with step 5 you will not have to readjust the timing.

Ross,
I had a lot of trouble trying to get the pump in correctly. I still think it is not correct. If I were to remove the distributor and then set the pump can I then line up the slot on the pump? Then set #1 wire plug and the firing order?

Oh, by all means have your dist out while inserting the pump! Its a wonder you could get it in at all. Then drop it in for a quick check. You seem to be only one tooth out.

That is good news. Now I can continue, yesterday was not a fruitful day. Your help is greatly appreciated.

A little late, but I found this easy way to check if the #1 piston is on the compression stroke relative to the position of the rotor in the distributor.

I pulled the #1 spark plug and put a wood skewer in the hole to the top of the valve, marked the height and noted the position of the rotor.

I'm guessing I marked a fan blade and used the starter or by hand to make one full revolution of the engine, then checked the height again, noting the position of the rotor.

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What is the correct fuel line size from pump to carb.
I have seen both 5/16" OD and 1'4" OD.

5/16"