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OH!!! YEs. U're rite about the jucntion block. I had a brain fart.

Maybe screw a hiem joint to the Ppower unit stem and then a bolt thru the eye of the hiem joint into the verticle bar that is welded to the cross shaft.

U'll have to cut the stem a little shorter and thread it down further but there should be plenty of clearence in the stem-hole of the power unit to allow for the shank of the hiem joint to travel into.

The LONG steel bar that hte PEDAL rod attaches to:
Do u have a torch to heat it so that it can be bent 90 degrees?????

You mean the 1" x 7" on left side with shaft at the bottom? If so, would probably need to get some gas, but yes.

Yes, the 1 x 7 lever on the left.

MAYBE the following idea can fit to eleminate welding:

ok. The lever is 7" long. Estimating: the distance from 7" lever to RIGHT side of power unit stem is 5". Length of 2 short verticle levers that the rectangular stem-block pivots on are 2" high.

So, 7" + 5" + 2" = 14" (or there about).

Obtain a piece of steel just like the 1 X 7 long lever EXCEPT make it 14" long instead of 7".

Now bend the new 14" piece of steel to fashion a shape like the letter "L" with a 2" serif on the lower horizontal leg.

That is: 7" from the end bend it 90 degres. Slip 2wo ball bearings (or similar "frictionless" type bearing or pillow blocks) with a 1" ID race over the horizontal leg of the piece just bent. Now bend 90 degrees a 2" verticle on the bar stock thus 'trapping' the bearings along the 5" region.

THis will completely replace ALL moving parts in your currect set up with a one piece arm and no welding. It will require the use of a hiem joint screwd to the power unit stem. A bolt thru the eye of the hiem joint and nutted to the 2" verticle rise in the "L" shaped lever just described.

The pillow blocks can be bolted to the frame work u made or bearings affixed to the frame work in some suitable fashion. No doubt will require some modification to the frame work to accomodate the 1" bar.

I AM NOT SURE if there is enuf room to accomodate a bearing large enuf to slide over the 1" wide bar. That may presenta problem.

HOWEVER, the 1" wide bar mite be hinged closer and tighter to the frame work using a heavy enuf piano type hinge or heavy duty door type hinge instead of bearings or pillow blocks.

But quite frankly, i believe your current design is the best to continue on with and just weld it.

For Craig, bhappy, walkerman or anyone else having a modern universal booster in the regular location with pedal mods giving about the same 3.5 or so ratio. Would appreciate a little information if possible.

I see you used both 7 single and 7 dual boosters. Believe all mentioned having about the same ratio and are happy with the results. Am wondering how the feel or sensitivity is on the dual and how things compare with respect to the original BTV. How good (bad) are the brakes with no vacuum & did anyone happen to measure the vacuum?

The boost of the dual is considerably more--almost equal to a 10-- than the single according to a guy who published numbers. Was just wondering how that translates to real world. I would think that it should make a big difference since the BTV was approx 5 1/2 albeit with a smaller diameter cylinder which throws another variable in.

"I see you used both 7 single and 7 dual boosters"

I assume that means 7 INCH diameter booster with single LINE master cylinder and 7 inch booster with dual line or tandem moden MC.

I didn't know anyone was using a single line with modern booster.

quote:
"Am wondering how the feel or sensitivity is on the dual and how things compare with respect to the original BTV. How good (bad) are the brakes with no vacuum & did anyone happen to measure the vacuum?"


STRICTLY in terms of feel and sensistivity i have never driven ANY dual master cylinder equiped vehicle that has 'feel' or sensitivity as good as ANY single line cylinder equiped car. I have no complaints with my modern conversion to power dual cylinder but it definately does not have the positive feel nor the sensitivity of the BTV nor ANY other single line power brake unit i have ever driven.
I've never liked the spongy feel of dual line master cylinders. EVERY dual line i've ever driven is spongy. Stops the cars just fine. So it's something i've learned to accept.

"How good (bad) are the brakes with no vacuum & did anyone happen to measure the vacuum?"

I tried braking once or twice a few years back with engine shut OFF and car still rolling. i got about 4 good stops out of it but it was very low speed, about 25 miles per hour. Never tried it at 70 mph. Maybe i will if i can get a good safe stretch of road all to my self. Not likely to happen anymore.

Not sure if i measured vauum at the power unit or not. No reason to do so ever occurred to me. Give me a good reason. I would expect vacuum to be equal to engine vacuum taken at the manifold in the normal way it is during any standard procedure tune up. Mite have to take the control valve in the back of carb into consideration for a vacuum check.

Note that my Ford Explorer conversion retains the Packard OEM vacuum reserve can in the plumbing.