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You can just buy vented gas caps. Dwight sells them. You can borrow one of my originals to test if you let me know.

Not sure what you are talking about with the o-ring and copper washer situation, as the original connection at the fuel tank is a 5/16 flare. Please send a photo or something of what you have there, as I'm assuming it's some different sort of connection.

If the car starts misbehaving after some time of being at full throttle then that's a plausible cause, that the carburetor is not getting refilled fast enough. If it does it immediately at full throttle, I'm not sure that would be the reason. Possibly something wrong with the secondary side of the carburetor, like a clogged jet there.

Dwight sells vented caps. They don't have a baffle like the originals did, so when the tank is full, fuel will splash out the vent hole and all over the inside of the fuel door and fender. I cut a soda can in half and threw it over the fuel filler/cap so that if it splashes out it doesn't get all over my paint. The half soda can redirects it to the road. Just something to be aware of.

If your talking about the gas line going into tank, that's a compression fit,

The flare in the gas line might be damaged or the tank side

It's the same type are the fuel line going into the filter before carb

Get a short piece of 5-16ths brake line screw it in. Cap it off, see if you get a leak

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I had this same problem. I cut the original fuel line before the tank, then cut about 4" of a premade brake line to use the flare and fitting. I spliced the short new section to the rest of the old hard line with fuel hose. I also used fuel safe sealant on the threads for good measure. No problems now and it's been 3 years.

Yea it is a new tank, with a new fuel line. I am not entirely sure which side was was screwed up (line side, or tank side), which is why I thought an O-ring or copper washer might work. But I guess it is just as easy to get a pre-made brake line and stick that in to see if it helps. I am trying to keep the tank low on fuel until I figure out what to do so I dont lose $80 worth of fuel over winter. But if I was a betting man, my money is on the tank being screwed up. Already had an issue with another tank from this vendor that required them replacing it.

And Will, it doesnt happen right away, but the engine will pull hard like a good running V8 should but then start to buck like you said, not getting fuel up there quick enough. So far this is the only area I have seen any evidence of some kind of leak. So I would like to address it and see if it changes that situation before I dive deeper into this. The cars carb was rebuilt and the filter changed out, with all new parts in the fuel system so I would be shocked if there was a blockage anywhere in the system.

Reference for me - fixing turn signal issue:
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL29NO3.pdf

I was home this past weekend to get some cars ready for winter storage, but the weather was nice so I figured I would use the patrician for getting around. It performed great! until I wanted to put it away. The engine was making an awful rattling noise. I couldnt quite determine where it was coming from but needless to say I was pretty pissed. Was able to drive it the .25 mile to the other garage for storage. By the time I got it up the hill and in the garage the noise stopped but it was idling poorly. I shut it off in disgust and just left it there.

After talking to Ross and Will the idea is that there could be some issue in the valve train. Wont know more until I can get the valve covers off and see what I got going on in there. So stay tuned, I wont be back until November.

If the down draft tube is loose that will rattle,

I put a piece of hose between head and pipe.

The same recently happened with my 1956 Patrician. It was running well and all of sudden it wasn't. It was always noisy - not lifers but rather just a general overall sound - but that suddenly got louder and it started running rough.

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did you ever figure out what happened?