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I'd wager the gear was on its last legs and just happened to pick you to die on.


If you give up on the 356, I can make it disappear for you.

Keys are actually soft steel, so they'll distort rather than shear off. You don't want to damage what it's keyed into like a crankshaft. Not a "fuse", per se. It's job is alignment and to transfer torque. It'd have to be brittle to snap and that hardness would ruin the slot. Cast isn't that strong to begin with and ages poorly.
I saw another situation at one of the brand sites and the small starter gear broke into 3 pieces trying to start a stuck motor, so not that uncommon working on oldies. Everyone is in a hurry to get them running and pay dearly.
They make a tool for attaching to the flywheel teeth so one can rotate the engine on the stand or with the inspection plate off. Of course when socket challenged I go to the socket store first.
The big box retailers think we shouldn't have any bigger than a 3/4 and not all the sizes. Makes me mad and have to order which takes days not now when I need it. I have an old 1" drive and one socket for it but mostly use wrenches on big stuff.

So I need any and all suggestions on how to free stuck valves. Currently the motor has about half stuck, however the real problem is with the rear two intakes. I've tried every combination of wedges, prybars, heat and hammers I can come up with, and it won't budge. No wonder the cam sprocket broke on no. 8 intake. I've got the manifolds off, and soaked the valve stem above the guide, roasted the valve guides with a propane torch, tapped everything lightly trying to shock it loose, and just about put my weight on a 4 ft prybar underneath the end of the valve stem,with no success. I've never seen nor heard of valves stuck this hard, and the internet isn't offering anything useful. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

As was mentioned before some have had real issues removing stuck valves and it sounds like you have joined the club. To remove them you will need to find or make something like this tool. If made, it will probably require something welded up that will fit under the valve. Anything that could be bent will not be strong enough. Use a regular body slide hammer for the other part. You may luck out and not damage the head with the tool but in all probability the valve will not fare well and will need replacing.

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Yeah, that's tight. The set of 356 valves that I removed had a few tough ones, but those had bent stems. I was able to pry them out with a bit of elbow grease and a couple of encouraging (vulgar) words.

My wager would be that these ones here are bent and gunked.

Yeah, that tool looks great, but won't help here as the stuckest valves are completely shut, so there's no way to get under them. No budging even with a *little* bit of leverage, and a lot of heat and sauce.

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Small leverage

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Soak it, let it set and keep it wet. Be patient as it may take a week or more before it frees up. Trying to force it, you'll end up breaking the block. Maybe even carburetor cleaner will help but it evaporates fairly fast so it will take a lot of it.