Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I'm curious about that fuel pressure gauge. What does it read at idle and at say 1500-2000 rpm????

ok. So after all of this what coil is installed???? A 12v or 6v coil????? A new one or a used one or what????

I have no idea how to use a dwell meter or what it looks like.

At first i gapped them to spec on the bench with feeler gauges. spec was .0125 to .0175. I went with .014, fairly in the middle. So i made the gap at .014 at the top of the lift of the rotor lobe.

Then the points weren't closing all the way when on the flat side of the rotor. I can re gap them, but after some research i'm going to try the plugs first. I believe i have them at .045 but that's a decent cry from .035 to .030 the tuneup manual talks about, and that may be causing an issue. Otherwise, idles better, WOT from a stop light is fine, just seemed when i was getting up to cruising speed when it would miss and carry on a bit.

Right now a 6v napa coil is installed, IC7 or IC6 i believe, per napa spec? one or the other isn't available, and i'm using the one that is.

For the record, i think i was killing the pertronix with the solid wires. Better stick to directions next time.

At idle, i'm usually getting 2-3 PSI, depending on if i pump it or not to get it started. Usually, after a minute, it settles at about 3 psi. The most i've seen it while holding it half throttle for 3-5 seconds is about 4-4.5 PSI, maybe close to 5 but 3-4 is usually where it is.

The carb was just professionally rebuilt, new lines and filter and fittings, and new fuel pump from MM. Not saying fuel can't be an issue, just not as likely because my hands weren't in the fuel system breaking things as much as the ignition.

I'd suggest getting the spark plug gap back to where it belongs first - with that kind of gap I'd think it would run very poorly at anything over low speeds.

Using a dwell meter is simple but entirely unnecessary, accurate and careful setting of the point gap followed by rechecking the ignition timing should take care of things. Put a high spot of the distributor cam on the moveable point rubbing block and move the stationary arm as needed to get the required gap. Spin it a couple of times and recheck on a different lobe - it should hold the same setting if the distributor is in good shape. Since adjusting the gap changes the timing, reset the timing after you're satisfied you have the gap correct.

I do not recall the specs on the point gap for this vehicle, but I know for sure taht with regular non-electronic ignition there is a specific gap, not a range with .005 difference.

I did not read the entire thread, but have the distributor bushings been checked for wear? If they are worn, the gap can vary greatly when it is running. Remove the plastic rotor, move the metal short shaft side ot side and see if the point gap changes.

Fred Kanter gives good advice on checking the distributor bushing.

My ORIGINAL 1956 (not a reprint) MOtors Manual indicates point gap for all AL duistributors as .017" 46 thru 1956 EXCEPT 46 and 47 six at .020"

Delco distributor point at .016" for all 48 - 56 EXCEPT 46 and 47 6 cylinder at .022".

Spark plug gap all 46 - 52 at .030". 1953 ALL .028".

All 1954 spark plug gap .025". All 55-56 .035".

THe .014" that they are set at now is too close. Probably causing the advanced timing isssue u're complaining about.

It's wider now than the .014. Below is an excerpt from the Packard tune up guide that i used to set the points in that range. I'll double check them again tomorrow.

I have no way of checking the timing but by ear...advancing until it pings under load and then backing it off a tad bit. Any timing marks on the dist have long since been wore off or are gone.

Attach file:

---

  (114.76 KB)

I have seen such tune up guides, you will note that it is done on a typewriter and pasted up. Cheap to make, I guess worth what you paid for it new. It is not the quality or type of manual that professional mechanics used. I would rely on major brand, well established manual such as Chilton or Motors or one published by an igniiton parts manufacturer.

Timing marks are stamped into the vibration damper, soem cars have a pointer on the distributor for fine adjustment vbut it must first be timed off the damper.