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Joe, attached are photos of the inner seals I used on my 47 Clipper Custom (same as Howard's). I experienced no problem installing them using a seal installation tool like you rented. As I recall, the seals I used did not have a spring in back of the lip. The inner seal keeps differential oil from the bearing and the outer seal keeps bearing grease from the brake area. Your seal numbers may be different as I believe you have an axle/differential assembly from a commercial application. Hate to be anal about this, but thought you needed to know.

(o{}o)

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Yes, it's the 1803A ambulance axle. When I get new bearings, I'll put in new seals facing with the open side toward the carrier. But I will still have the issue with the springs coming off when being tapped. I'll try some masking tape to hold the spring, or search for a seal of the same dimensions that closed on each side (as I think it should be).

Perhaps that spring is not needed or should be removed. I'll inquire at NAPA.

At the moment dealing with shift/clutch issue.

Joe,

Here's something you might try, if you haven't yet.

On my 110 there's at least one spring that's fairly sizable on the clutch linkage. I suspect there may be on your car as well. I'd take a shot at removing the spring(s) and that should let you know where the play in the linkage is.

My shaft that the linkage rotated on was pretty worn. It had a large divot in it. Something like that might be a source.


Rich

Rich, good suggestion. I think what you are describing is the over-center mechanism that eases clutch operation. It is mounted on the frame, easy to see. The intermediate link is subject to wear and this will contribute to excessive play.

(o{}o)

Walt Breithaupt had a unusual problem at the Pontiac National with his 40 "120", the clutch actuating rod actually fell out of the car on the road during a tour and it wasn't until the next time he needed the clutch that he realized it - thus it was lost somewhere on the road. He had an interesting ride back, killing the ignition to stop and starting in gear when it was time to get going again. And changing gears without a clutch is a skill not easily acquired, least of all when you have to do it and haven't had the chance to practice. Luckily Joel Ray saved the day for him with a new part after he got back to the parking lot.

MORE OVERDRIVE
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... pact&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

AXLES: Axles with brand new $100 bearings installed after I installed my third set of oil seals, this time correctly. Tape and Tap. I taped these on the inside so the little spring wouldn't pop off into the axle housing when I tapped them in. They are installed correctly now, so thank you for setting me straight on that.

CLUTCH: Started on clutch removal, but only as far as removing the speedometer cable and shift levers. My speedometer reads 10 mph short and the reason is those ambulance axles. So I will look for a replacement for my 1803 speedometer gear. The ratio due to axles appears to be 3.9 for the 1803 (current gear) and 4.7 for the 1803A. More as life unfolds.

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Here's how I got my seals out of my 110 today...




that's a piece of PVC pipe laying around in the garage.

Then you stick it in there with a socket similar in size to the seal.







give the pipe a tap and....




It was indeed spring side in.

Of course to do this you need to remove the third member.


Might help someone in the future.

Rich

AXLES: I copies the specs on axles and transmissions for the speed shop that agreed to correct my speedometer, as part of this clutch repair exercise.

CLUTCH REPAIR: Process continues and I am documenting as I go. Have removed the drive shaft, stripping it and repainting. Removed the overdrive solenoid. With the cover plate over the tranny removed, it was much easier accessing the upper screw holding the solenoid than I remember doing from below. Also much easier to unscrew the solenoid and then removed the wiring, than the other way round.

QUESTION: How does the overdrive governor come out? Does it unscrew as a unit or is it bolted in?

I bought a transmission jack at Harbor Freight and a couple extra jack stands to support the engine. And lined up a couple of young guys to help this coming weekend.

QUESTION: for a month or so before I had the shifting/clutch problem, I could hear that old truck "clunk" like a pot banging once in a while from the rear-end. What causes that noise, like something is loose back there? What can be done about it?

I did get new bearings: clutch pilot bearing, through-out/release bearing and rear overdrive bearing.

I could hear that old truck "clunk" like a pot banging once in a while from the rear-end

Could be any number of things, the first that comes to mind is insufficient torque on the brake drum retaining nuts (or worn drum hub/axle taper, or grease or oil on the taper itself). Or loose wheel lug nuts. Worn universal joint(s) possible though less likely. How are the rear spring shackle bushings? U-bolts tight that hold the differential housing to the springs? Broken shock absorber or missing or worn bushings? Are the ring and pinion silent when the car is accelerating, coasting?