Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

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Thanks everyone. I've found that, assuming the nut is clean, just marking between the nut and shaft itself then snapping a photo will usually make it self explanatory the number of turns required. Of course this assumes the mark won't get worn off when you unscrew the nut, which could happen with these lock nuts. Even then counting the number of threads in the photo will usually get you back on track.

Am going to HF tomorrow to get a bigger breaker bar and also an exact 1-3/8 socket unless I can find one to borrow (was using a 1-7/16)

Just a tip. If your going to remove the nut as in the picture, swap the adjustable wrench to the left side of the yoke, so the bench backs it up. You exert more leverage when the wrenches are over one another. Use a machinist scale or depth mike to measure from end of pinion to face of nut and use a prick punch to "pip" mark the nut and face of pinion shaft for alignment. When re-assembled you should check pinion end play anyway. The bearings could be worn enough so that they wouldn't have the proper pre-load even if you do "count your turns". PB

I have a fairly short breaker bar, but I learned a long time ago that the handle to my floor jack could slip over the handle on the breaker bar. This now have me a 3 foot long breaker.

See post #7 in this thread.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=18059&forum=2&post_id=179582#forumpost179582


dp

Finally got the nut cracked loose. On the order of 500 ft-lbs was required. Heard the table creaking...

By the way it's a 1-7/16" or 36-37mm socket required. 1/2" drive is fine... it shouldn't break. I used the value price HF breaker bar which you can't see because of the cheater bar over it.

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Got my differential components cleaned up yesterday. Hardly anything of concern, but some very slight pitting.

I found a Timken 4189H seal is very nearly right for the front main seal. Though probably the MM reproduction is a wiser choice overall.

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HPH, if the close-up photo is a bearing race, and the dark area is material ‘pick-out’, then IMO your phrase “hardly anything of concern” is aspirational.
dp

I suppose, but I meant that more as that's the worst I found anywhere.

I can figure out what bearings these use and pick some up if it really looks like it won't be worth throwing back together as-is.

HPH
I guess I went off the deep end . . . I agree if that’s the extent of the wear then chalk one up for Packard. The trouble I have is the inner race cannot be inspected. I guess one could conclude that if the inner race is damaged that would transfer to the outer race in short order, and (leap of faith) if the outer is OK then the inner is OK.
dp

That's what I was thinking, but I need to give it a closer look anyway. It was nearly dark when I started on it yesterday, so let's see if I find anything else.