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That's a good score on the SL switches; as the supply really dwindled down and folks were going to alternatives they were going for $50 or so.

I recently had the Starter and the Generator rebuilt by a shop in central Illinois. They did a good job but went a little over board with the black paint. They sold me the 12 volt regulator in the image for warranty purposes. I guess they wanted to make sure I got one made in the USA. It was only $65 so I am not complaining. I added a pic of the box top and part number if anyone is interested. I have seen other post on here where people are talking about these becoming hard to find.

All these parts on the on the shelf for now as I am still working on the underside of the body. Little holes keep turning up to be patched. I think I have mentioned before that I had to remove both of the rear most body mounts from under the trunk. The rust was just to bad on them that I had no choice. I spent part of the winter rebuilding and reinforcing them. Well I got one of them back in place tonight. It feels good but I am sure tired of crawling underneath this thing.

If I had to do it all over again I would buy a rotisserie. The $1500 for one seemed like a lot of money back when I started but now its seems like a drop in the bucket.

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I got a question.

There is a local guy selling a non-running 55 Clipper. I have talked to him but have not seen the car.

How much of a Clipper would be interchangeable with my 400? I don't know what size engine it has right now. The seller admits he is not very knowledgeable about Packard. I know there are differences that's obvious.

Are the fenders the same?
If the chrome is in good shape would the bumpers fit?
What about the windshield?

Those are the type of things I am interested it. As mine need to be replaced and or re-chromed. Those parts alone would save me money by buying this car. I am not really eager for a parts car at this point but am toying with it the idea if it can save me money in the long run.

Hell, I don't know why its not running so it may even be a driver if I can get it started.
Thanks

55 Front bumper, fenders and windshield would fit although seniors have a different grill and park/turn signal so there may be some cutting needed to fit the senior park light housing in the Clipper fender. Clippers also do not have the double chrome strip and reynolds wrap on the sides so extra holes would be needed. If the Clipper is a 56, there is quite a bit of differences in fender line and bumpers so for practicality, nothing would be interchangeable. Windshield would still fit but on both years the Solex glass would have been an option so that could be a factor.

If the Clipper is a two door, I believe the doors and window glass parts would fit but the same chrome placement issues. If a 4 door Clipper then not much else except the hood and trunk lid but you could cut patch panels for the quarters here and there. Back glass is different and holes for trim would need work again.

On either 2 or 4 door, from the center back it gets dicey because of the different wheelbases. Tail lights are totally different and so is the rear bumper ends but the center section which bolts to the ends might fit.

Mechanically the Clipper has smaller components on some suspension pieces and a smaller rear axle but a lot of the basic stuff would fit. Same with interior parts but obviously the different styling means they would bolt in but not look correct.

Still not posting much because I am still crawling around under the body. Replacing metal and cleaning to be undercoated this summer. I got the 2 rear body mounts rebuilt and welded back into place. My welds may not look pretty but its in the there better then it was originally. I am trying to concentrate all my time under the car just to get it done.

Its that time of the year again where when our Lavender farm starts to control my life. As evident in the bottom two images. One is a DIY lavender stripper that I build sitting right along side my 400 chassis and sitting right next the body is an antique seed cleaner that I got running this week to clean the lavender stripped from the first device. These will eventually be moved to another building and out of my way. It was just easier to work in here with all my tools.

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Got the valve covers powder coated back in February and a co-worker painted the lettering for me.

Finishing up the brake and fuel lines that I started some time ago and just now getting back to.

That last image is of a shop towel that I shoved down into to distributor port. A mouse has been eating on it.

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I've been going thought this site looking for contact info for Ross Miller but I can't find it. I want to get the Bendix rebuilt.

All I want to do right now is to message him.
Can anyone provide some contact info. I would prefer an email address if possible.

Thanks

Ross checks in all the time so here is a link to his profile. Maybe you can send a PM.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/userinfo.php?uid=618

Thank you Howard. Ross and I were actually contacting each other this morning at the same time. As soon as I hit send I saw that I had a message from him with his contact info.

Got the fuel & brake lines done today, or at least I thought I did. About a year ago I ordered the brake line from In-Line Tubing. They didn't have the complete fuel line so I had to make my own and I did a better job then they did.

In the first image below you can see where they cut the brake line and placed the coupling. If that line ever leaks I am screwed. The second image shows where the
lines cross from the the outside of the frame to the interior of the frame. You can see in the image the original brake line, the new brake line and the fuel
line that I did. I don't know if the longer angle that they used would make a difference or not.

I may decide to move the brake line connection further forward and rebuild the whole rear portion of the brake line myself.

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By the time the body gets on the cushions there is an adequate amount of space to reach the brake fitting. When I replaced my lines with store bought lengths I placed the connector piece just about that exact spot on purpose. I wanted to have it mostly hidden from view. Installed one end while the tubing was out so it was tight and then was able to connect the other length without difficulty since the nut was easy to get a wrench on. I added a short length of larger but thinner wall hose that would fit over the regular hose and the fitting to better insulate it from hitting the outrigger and hide it even more.

I had the same issue with premade fuel line. I flattened or stretched out the angles a bit more and was able to bury the excess length by having more generous curves elsewhere.