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Plugs are gapped and installed. This was a change from AC R45 gaped at .035 to the Autolite 308 gapped at .027.
I haven't noticed a great difference, but idle might be a little smoother. The narrower gap gives a longer time duration spark which should make for more reliable ignition.
I like to think the "seat of my pants" is pretty sensitive, but it is hard to tell much of a difference. Today was just a 10 mile drive to work and back. When I get on the autobahn I can see if there is less pinging at WOT in high gear.

One thing I have noticed recently, is that I hear a "tick tick", or "ting ting" with each rotation of the front drivers side tire....I guess the first thing is to check the tire tread for rocks or nails, then remove the hubcap and make sure there is nothing ratteling around in there. Can wheel bearings make such a noise? My fronts have 12,000 miles on them and have been re-packed every few years.

Not saying it couldn't be a wheel bearing but properly greased and adjusted they should outlast the powertrain. In addition to your other suggestions, it could be something inside the brake drum.

Or even the wheel cover, sometimes they give a little "chirp" with each revolution, especially with radial tires.

Last night I removed the left front hubcap, and driving to and from work today, the chirp was gone! Now to try and figure out what/why it's chirping. I have the coker radials that look like bias ply tires. American Classic I think they are called.
I put a rubber gromet in the hole of the hubcap where the valve stem goes through...to isolate the metal valve stem from the hubcap. If I'm lucky that will help. I'll drive again tomorrow and listen.
One other thing that bugs me, when my gas tank is full, it still looses fuel onto my fender going around a right hand turn. I bought a new cap from Dwight Heinmueller. That fits tightly, but I'm still loosing gas. Am I just driving too wild around these corners?
Here is a pic of my original tank and new cap. Anything else I can try?

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I would be curious if and where the seal is actually being made. Does putting a straight edge over the tank opening show any kind of gap?

The cap sealing surface looks like it might be a fairly hard material such as a gasket cardboard or some such. Looking at the tank photo, it appears the outer rim would be where the cap seals and if so, is there enough of a taper as the filler tube rolls to form the outer rim to leave any kind of gap at the inner edge of the two notches? I wonder if a cap with a softer rubber surface might be able to mold better and be forced into the notches a bit tighter.

Maybe the hose where it attaches to the vent pipe is bad or not tight. Otherwise if it happens only when filled completely, then perhaps it's over-full.

Here's my two cents.

The cap is vented, so if you make a right-hand turn with a full tank the fuel is likely to squirt out of the vent hole. My '54 Cavalier came equipped with a 'tuna-fish can' upside down on the cap. That didn't stop the leak but it did direct the flow away from the fender. I subsequently replaced the 'tuna-fish can' with a rubber cap used to block off drainage plumbing for an inspectors leak check. I bought this highly technical upgrade from Home Depot. It fits the OD of the 'gas-cap' so well I thought it was best to drill a vent hole in the rubber cap to ensure the fuel tank has a vent passage. I normally aim this vent downward. No more fuel spilling on the fender . . . maybe the ground, but not the fender.

dp

Pictures David?? John

The inner ring on the tank, and the round mark on the paper surface of the cap are both at 45mm, so it does appear to be landing/sealing on there. I will check that the surface is plane.
It could be that the gas is coming out the vent. The tuna can sounds like an easy patch. I was thinking of some kind of rubber flap to do the same thing. Let me look in the recycling if I can find something that fits...

Small success, the hubcap was quiet this morning on the way to work, and I put an old coffee container over the gas tank cap. There still was some spillage, but a lot less stink since it just trickled down the filler tube, and not onto the painted fender surface....

Here's an idea. Rig a length of 1/8" rubber tubing to fasten to a small nipple on the top of the cap and then directed down. This will allow for spillage to escape without hurting paint and keep the tank ventilated. I haven't done this but it may be an answer. JWL

Mod I: Route the rubber tubing so it is looped above the gas filler level. This "trap" may keep any gas from spilling. The bottom part of the tubing can be secured to the filler pipe with zip ties.