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That whole 3' rod only cost about $4 but its a Packard tool now so its worth much, much more, right.

Welding in a patch panel right now. Also picked up the radiator support frame today that I had media blasted.

Found a place that can check-out and or re-core the radiator for me. I may get it up to them in the next couple weeks.

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Non resistor rotor on the right. RR 157

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I have a resistor rotor in my 55 with Packard wire and petronix and it ran fine.

I seem to recall that a while back someone expressed concerns about the reliability of the resistor-rotors. If they had a failure I'd think it was an isolated case as there are a half-dozen similarly equipped V8 Packards in my area including my own that are piling up mile and after mile for years and no problems with rotors. And they are so inexpensive, if you're apprehensive about it, just put an extra in the glove box - which would be a good idea in any case.

Our little farm is kicking my ass this year so not much Packard time this spring. Hopefully, after harvest in about 5 or 6 weeks, I can get some time in the shop.

I check PackardInfo every day so I am not entirely out of contact.

Just logged in to say that I finally, after 5 years, joined the Packard Club tonight. I am hoping to make it to Columbus in July even if only for a day.

Stewart

I did manage to get one thing accomplished this summer. There are only two radiator shops listed in the Louisville area. I went with the one that was celebrating its 60th anniversary.

After searching and finding some re-core info on here I was expecting between $500 & $700. Mine cost me $575 and they had it done in 5 days.

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Hello Gents, did you miss me?
As usual farm life keeps me busy all summer but I have been back working on my 400 for a couple weeks now. Still trying to get the body work done.

Back in March, I cut the gutter trim off the passenger side roof line. The gutter itself was OK but the metal strip welded to the door frame was in bad shape and had to be removed.

What I have now are 3 pieces of sheet metal that meet in the same place but are no longer connected. The first image below is a drawing that shows a cross-section view of what I am dealing with. "A" is the roof. B is the interior brace and C is the door frame. A and B used to have a flat strip that folded under the door frame but that all rusted away.

So, I need to get them all connected again. I'm thinking I can spot weld A & B together about every 4 to 6 inches (image 3 below). Then I can add some new metal to the door frame (image 4) and weld it to the roof.

My main concern is that layer B is not accessible and can not be cleaned. If I try to spot weld it is just going to pop and sputter and do nothing but make a real mess. Toying with the idea of connecting a small tube to my media blaster and pushing it between A & B from the inside out.

Just thought I would bore you all with my nightmares.

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I can't believe it's been 18 month since my last post here. Found my project blog on page 4. This should light up a couple email boxes, sorry about that.
I got tired of typing about the rust repair so I just stopped doing it as that was all I was doing.
That gutter line rust/roof repair that I talked about in my last couple posts just overwhelmed me. I just sort of got stuck for about 9 month and just stared at it, a lot. Then one day a new friend was in my shop and I showed it to him. He made a few suggestions and that's all I needed I guess to get moving again.
The roof line is now as good as I can make it myself. Once the gutter goes back on no one will know I ever worked on unless it falls apart.
Been finishing up the body filler on the quarter panels and other places lately. Hoping to prime it before winter.
Also hoping to get the engine to turn over. Rebuilt it about 5 years ago and it's just been sitting ever since. The engine is what led me back to PackardInfo. What is the object in the photo? I know it attaches to the back side of the carb. I'm pretty sure a rubber hose comes off that nozzle but I have no idea what that hose runs to.

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That's a one-way or check valve for the vacuum brake booster. It permits the brake system to retain some vacuum after the engine shuts off so that in the case of an engine stall while the car is in motion, you still have enough residual vacuum for one or two powered brake applications.

The hose would run to the brake booster unit and on to the vacuum reserve tank located in the inner front left fender well. Browse the parts list for an illustration of the system.

Thanks Owen

I never would have guessed that.

The external hard drive, were I stored all the pictures that I took while dissembling, died on me recently. So, my primary source of info for the rebuild may be forever lost.

Stewart