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Just take that one rocker shaft off and run your pump. I'm pretty sure your flow will be fine or you will be able to find the blockage. The heads are certainly interchangable left and right. Perhaps you have one rocker shaft of the later type which flows far less. Did you clean out the shafts? they can be quite full of sludge.

Thank you everyone and a special thank you to Ross. Should have thought of that myself.

I pulled the rocker and ran the pump. I wa snto prepared for the amount of oil that flowed out. I set the rockers back in place without the bolts and ran the pump again. That little glob in the image below shot out of the far right bolt hole.

Put the bolts in place with just a couple turns and everything is still good but when I tighten the bolts down (not torqued) the flow cuts of again.
I guess I need to dissemble that rocker and clean it out again this weekend.

Stewart

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You are on the Right track Stewart. Complete cleanout of the tubes are one of the most overlooked details on rebuilds and quickly kills a fresh engine.

I think I got the oil issue taken care of. There were multiple issues but when I rotated the engine the flow changed.

I found this wiring image in the Service Manual. I'm sure you are familiar with it. Can I start the engine with only this setup?

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Yes. Just make sure anything else connected to the BAT terminal on the solenoid or to the ACC or IGN terminals on the ign switch is disconnected or safely terminated.

Obviously you will not have any oil or temp gauges without wiring the senders and powering the instrument voltage regulator on the dash cluster. The battery polarity is shown for a 56 which would decrease the coil efficiency a tad if it is wired for a 55.

Thanks Howard
Nothing is wired right now. Nothing at all.

Got another question. A couple years ago I got good deal on this item in the image. I thought it would be nice not to have to worry about points (don't ask me why). So, I wired it into the distributor last year still thinking it would be a good idea.
The second image is a wiring diagram for this device.
Do you think this will work if I wire it like the third image below.
It would probably be easier just to put the points back in.

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As long as the battery is wired for negative ground it should work. 12v Pertronix has a fairly decent reputation but if there is a question you could reinstall the points just so you don't have to deal with an extra unknown factor while getting the engine running.

I personally know six people who have had Pertronics failures.
Be damn sure you carry the old parts in the Glove box as you may need them.

I have been so inspired by the the stellar reliability of Pertronix that I wrote a poem about it for the benefit of someone on the Studebaker forum who was pondering making his 41 less reliable:

If you wish to despair,
and then tear your hair,
if your are wishing for grief
on the side of the street,
if pushing a car gives no pain to your joints,
buy a Pertronix and toss out your points.

I have read comments from many that in the assumption a car will start twice in a row or even make it down the block without a push the 6v Pertronix is somewhat less than reliable and have so stated that to many considering adding one of those units. Have not heard the same about the 12v versions. Is the collective opinion saying the "buy it and take you chance" description should apply to the 12v models too?