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I had a quick search but didn't see the mention of your generic gas sender choice. Which unit did you choose and what is the ohm range. I did not find anything that would work when I decided to make my sender so just wondering if availability has changed and you found a good fit.

My car has the S-W gauge that needs their old ohm range of 100Ω empty and 0Ω full. Tried reversing a 0-90Ω GM unit and also tried modifying that sender with external resistors but was never able to get the gauge to read correctly at both ends. Did you find or what did you do to make something work?

A little over three years ago I first looked into it but never put it in practice. Here is the original blog:packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... m=12&post_id=189617#forumpost189617

And my youtube video on it:
youtube.com/watch?v=6UDLFoF2Evo

I've got it install I still need to get a 250 ohm resistor to cut it down from 230 ohms to the 100 ohms to show empty. I would have thought that I would need a 230 ohm resistor, but when I set up my test station the 250 worked the best. If anything I can always change it out.

Wes

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I'm looking into removing the battery tray since that last battery I had in it leaked acid and ate off the paint. I'm hoping that once I get that out I can get a better look at the shift linkage. I'm thinking I will have to remove 4 to 6 bolts to get the tray out. The fun never ends.
Wes

Keep us posted on how it works. Did you need to do much filing to move the float far enough to get the 0 ohm reading instead of the 35?

I believe the battery tray has 2 at each end and 2 on the side under the lower splash panel.

I had to file just a notch about half the width of the rod and it gets it down to about 2 ohms, but still close enough. Its more about what the reading will look like between half and empty. Never a good time when one runs out of gas.

Also found a leak under the car after taking it for a spin around the block. Luckily just water, looks like it's leaking from the Water Pump. So I'm thinking maybe get a new Water Pump, three new hoses and a new Fan Belt and be done with that part of the car. No telling now long they been on. Easily 20 years!

Wes

Just asking, I've never rebuilt a water pump before. How difficult is it and how complete are the kits. I have access to a press so if one is needed that's no problem.
Wes

Well while replacing the wires on the Park/Turn Signal Light, looks like I need to replace the wires to the headlight bucket. I wonder if I can just pull out the old wires and string back in the new wires using the original wire covering also should the wires be 14 or 16 gauge? And it looks like I need to repaint the headlight bucket black, I think it wasn't taped up when they sprayed the fender after it was replaced.
Wes

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Your headlight buckets are wired like mine and the wires from the bucket are molded in a 5 conductor rubber covered cable similar to ordinary extension cords that connects directly to the junction block. I doubt the wires can be pulled out individually. 3 14ga are for the headlights and the other two are 16ga & connect to the parking light cable inside the bucket for park and turn signal filaments. I was able to find some proper 5 conductor rubber cable at RI wiring a few years back but might have got the last they had. I wanted more but she wasn't sure they were going to reorder but maybe worth a call if you want the proper cable. Maybe a trailer place would have something similar that could be used too.

Rewiring looks like its going to be costly but it has to be done too many wires showing bare spots. I know of the Colored Wiring Diagram but I'm looking for something more like the Wiring Diagram for the 1941 Clipper (see below) which gives the size of the wire along with the color. If there isn't one I guess I could use the 1941 diagram along with the 1947 Taxi diagram.
Thanks!
Wes

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How about this one

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