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Daytona has been rebuilding carburetors for the public for a very long time, at least 20 years. What they recently ceased doing was the high level of cosmetic restoration, mostly colorizing of the castings, electroplating, etc. They did the dual Rochesters on my Carib nearly 15 years ago, never had to touch them after the initial setup.

GENERATOR: Two questions:

1. Is it possible to remove and replace the oilers with the little springed cap at both ends of the generator? Are they threaded? What tool would you recommend?

2. The Parts book says the generator mounts using two 5/16"-24 1-1/8" hex screws. The mounting ears appear to be threaded, but the 5/16" screws just slide through. I tried 3/8" but neither will it go through the bracket nor screw into the earlobe. Was the generator intended to be mounted with the screws threaded through it?

A genuine, rebuilt GEA-4802-A AutoLite 6v generator arrived yesterday with its mounting bracket from John Ulrich. This is the first time since 1966 that a correct generator has been installed on the Duchess. Back in the day, the idea was to keep her running, so whatever the mechanic could find was installed, which turned out to be a GDZ version, very similar, that came from a Studebaker. We'll also install it today.

CARBURETOR: So far so good. We're putting a 45-degree elbow on the vacuum advance to clear the manifold and new mounting studs/bolts. Finishing the installation today when son John arrives.

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Those little oil cups just press in to install, twist and pull with a pair of pliers to remove, I buy new ones from MSC Industrial Supply but I suppose McMaster-Carr has them as well, there are many, many styles and sizes, push-in, threaded, right angle, etc. Check for a felt wick as part of the installation which may be there to "time-release" the oil to the bushing. About $5 for a box of 50.

mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Lubricants-Coola ... Hole-Covers/Oil-Cups?navid=12107473

Thanks for answer to Question 1. I will try removing the oiler with pliers.

OK, removed the oiler from the Studebaker generator. The metal is soft. I stayed away from the cap and spring, but still smooshed it a bit toward an oval shape getting it out, then rounded it back by putting a small punch through the hole.

It's for a 1/4" hole, so I think the attached item is it.
Gee, I saved $9.

I couldn't find any evidence of a wick, just add 5-10 drops of medium engine oil every 5,000 miles.

Now to remove the plug the rebuilder installed.

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Emily Litella moment. It turns out the rebuilder sealed the oiler because he replaces the bushings with modern sealed bearings that won't need lubrication for the life of the generator. Now what will I do on the 1st Tuesday of every other month?

You can cut off the tubes and epoxy the cups onto the plugs! Then you'll have a place to put the oil once a month and a little extra to do cleaning up the mess!

John has done a masterful job installing the rebuilt generator, carburetor, and fuel filter.

The generator performs well and looks great.

The Stromberg carburetor may be fine, but my test run didn't go so well. The engine started easily, but really raced, so I adjusted the fast idle screw to 1000 RPM. The engine runs at idle at 375 RPM when warm.

On the test spin, it died at the bottom of the hill when I stopped. The car has much more power. The acceleration is amazing. It reminds me when the car was stripped of hood and trunk, fenders and doors and top. It just flew. That's how it is now. I think there were major problems with the Carter carb.
But now, when I start up the hill it quits.

It could be starved for fuel, so John will rebuild the spare fuel pump so we can switch if need be. I have an electric fuel pump that puts out 10 lbs pressure, but I only use it to break vapor lock or if the car has been sitting a few days. I give it a few pumps, shut it off, and start the car. I was only able to restart it by turning on the electric fuel pump and keeping the pedal to the floor (the car was fully warmed). I made it home, but I went gingerly, not giving it too much pedal.

Daytona Parts sent the carb back without the fast idle spring. I called, but they said emphatically, with 30 years experience, it is absolutely Unnecessary. Backstory: Six years ago I called them to see if that spring came in their AAV-26 kit. They said No. The spring has to be taken off another AAV-26 so we only do that if you have us rebuild the carb, a $300 job. So I sent the carb in with a note making certain they would replace my bent up spring. In the past, Without that spring, the choke plate could flip flop, open and close, and the car would buck. They said they guaranteed to would not do that with the spring off the carb. The huge amount of air being sucked by the carb would keep it open. Once we resolve the fuel supply issues and adjust the carb, I'll take it for another test run and see what happens. Can you tell I'm skeptical?

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We still have the same problem with the car stalling out the moment I start up the hill and give it more gas.

Things had been going well. Idling at 325-400 rpm, revs fine, (if you watch the video, you'll see) then when I drive it up a hill in the hood, it dies, acting like it's not getting fuel.

While we waited for the rebuilt pump from Kanter (the kit I had on hand from Classic Preservations was woefully incomplete), I siphoned and dropped the gas tank. Back by the tank I added a 2-ft bypass of fuel line for the e-pump plus a pressure regulator set to 5 lbs, plus a check valve on the regular line so the e-pump wouldn't pump gas back into the tank. Please see attached diagram.

I also replaced the spark wires with the "Packard" type made fresh from Dwight H.

We tested the pressure of the e-pump to be sure we had 5 lbs, before we added the new mechanical pump, and also to be sure there are no leaks from adding the bypass line.

We started the car and warmed it up. We adjusted the mixture screws (not done before) per the instructions from Daytona while running a vacuum test from the intake manifold, 16.5 lbs. was the best, so we set the screws there.

I also removed the overdrive regulator wire that goes to the distributor because it can also cut ignition momentarily if it isn't working properly. It gets its cue from the governor (speed-related). Just to eliminate that possibility.

We took it for another test drive. It seem to want to buck, like zoom for a second. It does not die at the stop sign. It's so hard me to adjust to such low RPMs. I think it's dying when I stop, but it's not.

So we drive another block, it zooms a bit. Stop again, then head up the hill. About 3 driveways up it quits. I back into a driveway to be level. Pedal down pressing the starter, but it doesn't start till I flip the electric fuel pump. We make it home, a little zoom in places.

We removed the cute new fuel filter. Same MO

We added 10 gallons of gas (it had 7 or 8 already). Same deal.

It has to be something simple.

We'll make a video of the drive tomorrow.

mktx.com/packard/EngineRev.mp4

mktx.com/packard/323RPM.mp4

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Joe...I wonder if your check valve is acting up? I also wonder if you might have a loose wire connection or a bad swedge on a connector. A little Holly Water on the radiator cap can't hurt. Ernie