Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Get the lense clean and oil free as possible, and get some modeling clay, form it around the lense, giving you more traction and somthing to hold. I think that's what I did on the 51 I had years ago. I would say a strap wrench, but as I remember there is no way to get it to grip.

You know what, another thought just hit me, how about one of those gloves they sell at the kitchen supply to get stubbren lids off of jars?

Best of luck,
Jim

I left it in; it stayed in the grill find and is protected. I sure hope the bulb never burns out.

You are supposed to rotate it counterclockwise; the passenger side parking light came out easily. The glass has threads built into it.

Quote:

I'll try that, thanks! I had duct tape all over it, so traction isn't the issue; I used a oil filter wrench to no success because of the slight angle and the fact that the diameter is too small for the wrench, and I think the glass would shatter with too much effort.

Today I got the grill off, only problem was the 'bumper guards' were in the way so I had to loosen them to remove it.

I removed the battery box (2 of 4 bolts broke) and the fresh air duct.

Now I'm working on the automatic antenna. Not much detail in the shop manual on the antenna, it is being problematic. The wiring has no splices so I'll have to track it under the dash and remove it there.

I took a lot of pictures and will post a few prime ones later.

Today I was able to get the front fender off with few problems. About one fourth of the bolts snapped off even after being thoroughly soaked in PB Blaster for several days. Tis okay, I have the remainders and most are simple bolts easy to find at a hardware store.

I tried to remove the automatic antenna, but was unable to get the chrome trim ring off of the bumper; the small set screw has no head, neither allen or flat head. I left the antenna installed and removed it with the fender.

There was a spot weld where the fender meets the body under the door. The rocker panels are totally rotted away, but I don't have a source for new ones. I ground the weld off with my angle grinder.

After I remove the other fender I plan on starting the motor to identify the exhaust manifold leak and how evenly the head heats up, to see if the water distributing tube is plugged.

What is a good fix for the damper with broken rubber? See the picture below.

Attach file:

---

  (144.44 KB)


  (202.85 KB)


  (129.71 KB)


  (145.15 KB)

Nice start, keep it up and keep us updated. I remember the suggestion about using a heat gun to judge the condition of the water distribution tube; my 2 cents worth says for the cost of a water ump gasket which you could easily make. I'd pull the pump and the tube and inspect it directly. If you have the time, you also might pull a core plug or two and flush vigorously.

Lots of work there. Don't remember ever seeing a spot weld on fender--just one or 2 bolts that always were rusted. As to the damper valve rubber, I know there is repro die cut but for life of me, can't find the reference. Someone else (maybe you) asked a few days ago. O_D has seen print ads and might be successful finding who has them. If not, they are very easy to make with sheet material available from most industrial supply places.

Just noticed your antenna is missing the nylon cable catch tube or had you already removed it.

No tube on the antenna; I imagine it is to keep the cable from snagging during retraction. Should I have one?

Here's a better picture of the set screw I cannot get off.

Attach file:

---

  (171.76 KB)


  (125.59 KB)

It's not a set screw, its for a pin spanner to attach and unscrew! Not the most common tool but you can buy one or make one easily in 30 minutes. I'll send you a picture later this evening of one I made for the 55-56 antennas.

EDIT - better photo, tool body from aluminum bar. Pin is broken drill bit of proper diameter.

Attach file:

---

  (38.36 KB)

Here is the complete antenna and the nut. There is no setscrew. The hole is for the tip of a spanner type wrench that "wraps" around the nut. The tube is thin-- aluminum I think, but maybe thin steel --with a steel nut so it may be corroded. A dose of PB blast if you can shoot from under fender to get it to threads and it should unscrew.

Attach file:

---

  (15.49 KB)


  (29.19 KB)


  (53.01 KB)

Carl,

Take a look at the last entry on my project blog for information on replacing the vent flapper seal.