Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

PV8 - Sounds like good advise, I'm sure that the TL motor is probably the original, and never been serviced. I might try this, reattach the motor and see if the motor can correct the issue. Although, I still need to see if I can manually turn the shaft in either direction. If it's bound up in the gear box, the motor still might not fix it.

Hi All,
I've been trying to catch up on my reading so I'm late to this thread. Someone earlier mentioned "waiting for the system to relax" (that was a paraphrase, not a quote). From about mid 1985 to 2007, my '55 Patrician sat with the right front jacked way up. When the car was finally lowered the system was "kinked" in that position so the car sat with a list and left rear bumper end inches from the ground. When I got it to my house I put the newly tested starter back in the car and hooked up the battery. Nothing happened for several days. I'd go out and turn on the system for a while and when still nothing happened I'd turn it off. I checked out the wiring and everything was OK - just nothing happened. One day when I turned it on I heard a "click" and the T-L motor kicked in and raised the back of the car to normal and kept going. I dove for the on-off switch but the limit switch worked before I could reach the it. Over the next few days, even with the system off the front end sank and the rear was correspondingly higher than ever. I then fiddled around with the wiring and levers until about a week later I turned on the switch and the system came to life and finally the car was level - the system working fine ever since. In hindsight what I should have done was taken my grease gun and lubed everything on the chart when I got the car. I know bhappy's problems are different and much more severe but once the bars are back where they belong, I'd urge some time with a grease gun. It would have certainly saved my Patrician's system time and me a lot of worry.

Jim L. - That's encouragging news that I hope to report a similar result. I have thorouly lubed the underside a couple of months back. I was able to use the hobby shop's lift at my local AF base.

I now have a plan, thanks to the wealth of talent here, who are always willing to help us.

I know that everybody's tired of this, but I need some help in removing the upper TL motor long bolt and nut. Special tools needed? the front bolt is against the gear box housing frame is close with no access for open end wrench to turn. The rear bolt head is in a similar bind with frame and bracing preventing a wrench to move. no room behind it for socket and wrench either. It looks like packard built the car around this one bolt. Talk about a real puzzle.

Are there any Packard mechanics near me in Colorado? I do need a lot of help with this and I'm alone here, except for help from all of you.

It sounds like you may be trying to remove the TL gearbox or just remove the attaching bolts. I would strongly caution against this as it is under tremendous force and if released could sever a finger or a hand. The TL gearbox should only be removed after the forces are "neutral".
I trust you have read and understood the service manual, otherwise it's like driving in the dark without headlights and wearing sunglasses. This forum is not a substitute for a factory manual

I have read the service manual and other recommended resources and understand what I have read. The TL motor is held to the TL gear box by two long bolts, with the nuts on the gearbox end of the motor. I need to remove both of these 'long bolts' to remove the motor, so that I can manually unwind the worm shaft in the gear box. I am having trouble with the upper 'long bolt'.

I guess I need to take another break from all this. If no help arrives, it looks like the car will sit out this summer until next spring

I guess the difference must be in wheelbase. Looked at mine this morning and the one upper bolt is hard to get to for holding but was able to slip an open end thru from driveshaft side to hold it--granted, mostly by feel. As to the other end, on mine, no problem with a socket to remove them but if your frame is too close, is there a possibility to get one of the ratcheting type combination open/box ends on the motor side and hold it with a regular open end on the other. Loosen and remove the nuts but leave the bolts in housing and slide both bolt and motor/armature off as a unit.

Here's my spacing and also a few poor photos with a wrench in place. Hard to get a decent camera angle. Last photo shows the bolt from the top of a unit.

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It's been several years since i had mine off.

IIRC the long bolts do NOT have to be completely removed from the TL motor. Just remove the nuts. Slide the bolts out of the motor just maybe 1/2 inch.

TO REMove the difficult nut:

Use a screw driver or other similar tool to wedge between the NUT and the body of the TL unit housing and then turn the bolt on the rear end of the TL motor with a wrench or something. NOTE that the screw driver blade must be positioned from the correct side to scotch the nut or else the screw driver will simply be pusheed away.

Clarification:

Place the screw driver blade PERPINDIULAR to the long bolt and push the tip of screwssriver in BETWEEN the nut and the TL housing. DO NOT DRIVE IT IN. Just hold it there by hand. In effect what this creates is a a kind of a "stay" or a "stop" for ONE of the flat sides of the hex nut. BUT IT MUST be positioned from the correct side. Only 2wo such sides.

For removal of the nut:

With screwscrew driver HANDLE closest to drivers side rocker panel and perpindicular to the long bolt of the TL motor then push the blade between the flat side of nut and TL housing. Now turn the TL motor bolt head at the rear end of the motor with a wrench.


NOTE that there are OPEN END wrenches readily available at any tool or parts store with the open end setting at close to perpindicular to the wrench handle. Don;t remeber the correct name for such wrenches.

I ran out and looked at my 56 Executive parts car.

The nut closest to the drivers rocker panel should be a piece of cake.

The nut closest to the drive shaft is difficult,. USe HH56's recomendation to fish an open end wrench across the top of the drive shaft and then down to the nut. As he says it will be mostly by feel. Worse case situation heat a wrench and bend it to go around the drive shaft like a common oridanary starter or manifold wrench.

For the TL motor BOLT HEADS use a THIN WALL double boxed 3/8 X 7/16 TWELVE point wrench. Mine is a craftsman 4-5/8 inches long. I just tried it on the BOTH bolt heads of my running 56 Exec and didn't even jack up the car. The OUTER bolt and nut closest tot he drivers rocker panel is a BREEZE.

The bolt head closest to the drive shaft will require a THIN WALL TWELVE POINT boxed end wrench. The NUTS are 1/2 inch. Try a THIN 1/2" OPEN end Tappet adjuster wrench on the very difficult nut. THat was the only one i didn't get to but could feel it with my finger.

NOTE: I did try a Craftsman STANDARD 7/16 12 point combination wrench on the INNER most bolt head. WIll NOT work. MUST have a THIN walled twelve point box for this one. Maybe take a standard box adn grind it down. The THIN walled 12 points are readily avaialable at tool stores etc.