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this summer I noticed that the lube for the right front side was not working I took it apart and blew out every piece from the frame to the tie rod end. But still no oil past the first couple joints I took it apart today at the oil line and pulled the lever I noticed only about 10 drips coming out of the line after the total travel of the lever. I also noticed an orface in the line the joints seem fairly tight how can I get more oil out to those joints I did not think it was a good Idea to drill out the orface all the other joints get oil on the car

I guess you're referring to the Bijur oiler? It would be a terrible idea to drill out the orifice in a drip plug - it will then get all or nearly all the oil and the others will go dry. If the drip plug is plugged or defective, either remove it and clean the little filter in it, or just buy a new one. I guess you know there were different drip plugs at different locations which delivered different amounts of oil (a couple of drops per mile except for the throwout bearing) depending on the needs of that particular location, so make sure you get the correct plug or metering unit.

7th Series Bijur map attached, I assume the 6th Series was the same or very similar.

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Hi everyone,

Bruce Blevins sells aftermarket Bijur plugs for several years, including 1929. I have my system completely off the car and several of the plugs are clogged. The tip looks it was actually some sort of felt..or something. The problem is that if you go jamming something up there to remove the gunk, you will invariably change the diameter of the tip and change the amount of oil that is deliverd by that tip, thus defeating the intent of delivering different amounts of oil to each location on the car. Not to emntion that you have to somehow replace the filter material.

I recently asked Bruce if there was any way to disassemble those plugs and clean the tip and he said...not that he was aware of. I am a restoration neophyte, but this is one of those things that I am just gonna pony up and pay to replace....all of them, and be thankful that there is someone out there like Bruce who is creating them as an aftermarket item.

Please enlighten me if I am missing something obvious about how to remediate this problem. again, I am a neophyte at this whole world of restoration.

John Wogec

Me again,

Just to let you know...the Bijur Company is still in business and will email anyone the same drawing that Owen_Dyneto displayed for each year of car. They are very pleasant people...I think they get a kick out of the fact that people are still using technology they developed so many years ago. The value of the drawing is that it specifies the size of oiler tip intended for each location on the car.

Hi 29:


Somewhere on this website is a Bijur manual that will explain how the system works.

Those are metering valves are stuck into the lines and have calibrated flow rates. Usually they have a press fit after tightening due to swedging. If you are concerned about the pump not working you can loosen the main feed line at the chassis and pull the lever.

I only needed to replace metering valves when they were missing or someone had tried to improve them by drilling holes in them. Otherwise I would soak them for a month in lacquer thinner or filtered gasoline. They would work as the manual says. The system is about as prone to contamination as a squirt oil can (when did you ever see one of those clog?).

You can buy new ones if they are in stock, but it's been a while and I don't know about availability.

Hope this helps.

John,
I have attached some photos of the front and back muffler supports on a 1930 740 which I would expect would be the same or similar to your 645.

The muffler has studs welded to each end, the front 2 studs bolt directly into the cross member, the rear 2 studs bolt to a simple angle bracket that bolts to the cross member.

I also have a 633 which has a very similar muffler supports.

David

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Sorry, I have replied to the wrong post, will try again!!

Thanks for the replies