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Engine Rebuild
#1
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

ThePackRat
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Hey friends! 😎 I've been really having trouble with my 49 22nd.... I'm almost convinced the valves are fried, engine is simply exhausted, no pun intended. I assumed or hoped, it was just a little sticky, and used some marvel mystery oil.... Long story short, I would prefer the dependability and assurance of a rebuild..... Unfortunately I'm limited to street parking, and can't really work big jobs myself. I've been quoted 5k ++ for the rebuild from several shops. Is this the standard price? I'm trying to explore my options before I fork over the cash. I have held a sheet of paper to the exhaust, and it's sucking in, not the best test. It also just started backfiring from the carb, and sputters harshly.... Almost like running out of gas. I have already replaced plugs, cap, rotor, charging system, wiring, cooling system etc. It gets hot 20 minutes after start up. It shakes violently at idle, engine wobble side to side.

Posted on: 2015/8/30 21:19
2292 49 touring
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Re: Engine Rebuild
#2
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David Grubbs
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One of the problems with the straight 8 is sticky valves. This is a common ailment with engines that have been sitting for a long time, or driven short distances often that didn't get the engines warm enough to get rid of water vapor. I think if you do a search for valve jobs on this site, you will find the instructions on how to remove the valve covers and check the valves. At the least, try removing the covers and spray some PB Blaster on each of them and see if that loosens up things. If you get lucky, this could be the cause of your problems.

For what its worth, $5000 is right in the ballpark, based on my experience with my 51.

Posted on: 2015/8/30 21:31
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Re: Engine Rebuild
#3
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Packard 1948
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if the valves are sticking then they can be observed by removing the right side tire and lower inner wheel well and valve cover and watching the show.

If they all can be seen moving up and down then you can try a compression check.

Posted on: 2015/8/30 23:06
Bill,

Dedicated to keeping the man who owns one on the road!!!
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Re: Engine Rebuild
#4
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JWL
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My advice would be to first do a compression check of the engine. This will give you a good general indication of the condition. Based on the ratings, you can proceed from there.

It was common in the day to do an overhaul which included valve grind, new rings, and depending on the condition of the crankshaft bearings, new bearings. All this work was done with the engine in the car. Maybe a new timing chain too. A properly overhauled engine would give thousands of miles of dependable service.

(o{}o)

Posted on: 2015/8/31 10:18
We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)
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Re: Engine Rebuild
#5
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PackardV8
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I have sticky valve problems on some of my very LOW SPEED OPERATION engines. One of them a 4 cyl 2.0 Ford ranger 1988. Alsooooooooooooooo in a few very small engines such a lawnmower rngines.

Get a can of CD-2 BLACK label IT WORKS!!! Slow but it WORKS and WILL free sticky valves. Took about 500 miles for the Ranger. And i am NOT one to believe in snake oils. The CD-2 is one that has worked for me for many years.

You have your heart set on the rebuilding. Go ahead. But if it does not need a rebuild then watch out that u don't wind up with a real abortion when it is done.

Try the CD-2. if it doesn't work then go for the rebuild.

Posted on: 2015/8/31 13:20
VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245
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Re: Engine Rebuild
#6
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PackardV8
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THe 88 Ranger i overhauled at my own hand and at my own eye. rebore, crank polishing etc (i stood and watched the boring process).

Ran the engine hard on interstate for about 15K miles EVERYDAY.

After that it became a farm trrrruck rarely exceeding 35 mph for short trips. THAT was when the valve sticking started. AFTER it became a low speed vehicle.

I now keep a can of CD-2 in it EVERY oil change.

Posted on: 2015/8/31 13:24
VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245
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Re: Engine Rebuild
#7
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Just can't stay away

DrewLA
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$5k for an engine rebuild is pretty much the going rate, at least locally, if not slightly on the cheap side for a good job. Vellio's Machine in Lawndale is very good, I know several folks who've used them and been more than happy--they really know their stuff, so if you want a good estimate give them a call if you haven't already. However, unless you've got something else going on - low oil pressure, high oil consumption, low compression on all cylinders, a knock in rhythm with the crankshaft, you've probably got some life left in your engine. Yes, a rebuild would certainly cure what ails your engine, but a valve job sounds more like what you need.

I'm not too far away from you, if you need a second pair of eyes and a free second opinion, PM me and we'll see if we can't figure out what's going on.

Posted on: 2015/9/1 0:21
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Re: Engine Rebuild
#8
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steve-52/200
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I spent about 2500 on a rebuild by the guys who said they were "really good at it" in the sf Bay Area Oakland. ,boy what a mess ,no compression because the never adjusted the valve stems
Cost me another 3000 to fix what the first guys mangled !
So before you pop down the $ make sure the guys have an oldster hanging around that understand the job
Max Merritt has modified caddie hydraulic lifters that'll fit but the initial adjustment takes some expertise and a small adjusting puc ,don't let anyone forget the heat distribution tube and that a lot of the oiling lines are external!

Posted on: 2015/9/4 7:47
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