Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Well, I thought it was the starter. Spent $100 today having it rebuilt- it was found to have some wear on the fields, and a brush was possibly grounding out. Armature was fine. New field coils. Installed it and went for a drive to warm it up. Same problem- when starting hot, battery runs down before it will start. NAPA tested the battery, and their machine said it was okay. I'm thinking now I may have a bad cell, or the wrong battery. Tested with a volt meter, and it drops to 2 volts when trying to start. NAPA 7248, CCA 875 @ 0?F, CA 1035 @ 32?F.

What wire gauge size are your battery cables?

I knew someone would ask me that question. Both proper size 00 (double ought). All connections cleaned and surfaces wire brushed. The only thing I can think of is the battery must be bad. For some reason the NAPA tester said it was good. Maybe their tests don't work properly with 6 volt batteries.

It did get low on water this summer, in the heat of my shop, with the Battery Tender maintaining it.

If you had one of those meters that clamped over the battery cable to measure amps whilst cranking it would be interesting. A couple of 6v cars I tested (that were working properly) drew in the mid 200 amps if I recall. Will check a couple this morning and report back. No way the battery should drop to 2V after 10 seconds cranking. Or how long does it take to get your car to light?


I'm going to take a moment to rant about battery tenders a bit. They are useful for cars that have computers that draw continually. Otherwise they are NO help, and seemingly a harm. My real-world experience with my collection of old cars over 40 years is that the batteries do just fine over the winter if the car is put away fully charged. Disconnect a battery cable for safety's sake, shut the hood and walk away. I have several batteries that are more than 5 years old, and replaced one this fall that was 8. One car came to me many years ago with a marine battery in it. It went on an extended tour this summer over 3000 miles. The battery date code is from 2002!

Sounds like if there was some wear on the fields, that the bushing/bearings were worn out in the starter.....

John

John, the fields were not worn from the armature touching them, but from the insulation coming apart with age. Replaced as a precaution. The bearings/bushing were fine.

Ross, the car takes longer to start when hot, after driving and stopping. It didn't spin any faster after the starter repair, but started right away. I'm still thinking the battery is bad, since I boiled most of the water out over the summer when I wasn't driving it because of the radiator.

The reason I put a six-volt tender on it was for the same reason- I wasn't driving it much at all, and the battery I bought in 2012 only lasted two years. I can now drive it regularly, and I'm not putting the tender on it.

I don't think I had this problem before, when I had the first battery, at least until it went bad.

Going to try a new battery today. NAPA is going to replace it at the pro-rated price of 49 bucks. I'll let you all know how that works out.

Like Ross I've always had a problem understanding the popularity with battery tenders as opposed to standard tapering-charge trickle chargers; to me they seem most appropriate for storage of vehicles that have a constant parasitic current draw for an on-board computer or the like. My 6-volt NAPA batteries have generally lasted at least 6 years, more generally about 8 years (12-volt batteries somewhat less). During winter storage of about 4 months I fully charge the battery, disconnect the ground strap, and perhaps once during the winter connect a tapering trickle charger for perhaps 6 hours or so. Springtime always finds the battery fully charged and ready to go. I check the electrolyte regularly; allowing it to fall below the top of the plates for any length of time really shortens the capacity and useful life.

As far as diagnostics, as you scrounge flea markets keep an eye out for a battery current draw gauge like the attached; you just lay it over the cable and read the draw while cranking. Specs are in Motor's Manuals; typical for postwar units (except 356 motor) is 60 amps/5 volts for a no-load condition and 600 amps/3 volts for a locked condition.

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I wonder if one of those Fluke clamp meters would work?