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26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#1
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Chris R
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Hello, I'm in the process of converting my 53 clipper to 12v and wanted to share my parts lists and info for anyone interested in doing the same conversion. I will continue to update this thread as I make progress.



Parts Lists


Lighting circuit

- Courtesy lamp (under dash) - P/N 1004 - QTY 2

- Glove box lamp - P/N 57 - QTY 1

- Instrument cluster - P/N 57 - QTY 8

- High beam indicator (in cluster) - P/N 1445 - QTY 1

- Backing lamp - P/N 1156 - QTY 2

- Trunk lamp - P/N 1156 - QTY 1

- Rear tail lamps - P/N 1157 - QTY 2

- Front parking / Direction lamp - P/N 1157A - QTY 2

- Headlamps - P/N H6024 - QTY 2

- Rear Courtesy lamp - P/N 1155 - QTY 1

- License lamp - P/N 1155 - QTY 1

- Turn signal flasher relay (12v 3 pin) - P/N 550 - QTY 1


Ignition system

- Stock replacement distributor cap

- Stock replacement rotor

- Stock replacement condenser

- Stock replacement spark plug wires

- Spark plugs - Autolite 308

- Coil - Universal 12v (internal resistor)



Info


Lighting circuit

For the most part the lighting circuit is pretty self explanatory but I would like to explain a few things.

- Inside the instrument cluster are a total of nine bulbs. Eight of them are #57 bulbs while only one is a 1445 bulb. Four of the #57 bulbs illuminate the instrument cluster, two of them are for the direction indicators, one is for the battery discharge indicator and the last one is the oil pressure indicator. The one 1445 bulb is for the high beam indicator.

- The research that I did regarding the turn signal flasher indicated that some manufacturers 6v units did work on 12v while others didn't. I initially powered everything up with the factory unit and it was a no go. I guess the units Packard used doesn't like 12v. The 550 flasher relay was a direct replacement on my 26th series but may not be on an earlier model.


Misc

- Stock 6v horns and 6v horn relay work fine so far.

- Stock 6v blower motor also work fine so far.
















-Chris

Posted on: 2015/12/21 1:48
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Re: 26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#2
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HH56
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Nice list of items and I'm sure others will appreciate your efforts.

Quote:
Stock 6v blower motor also work fine so far.


I'd keep a close eye on the blower motor. Wouldn't be surprised that you will find after a few minutes running the motor housing will be very hot. Once the varnish and enamel insulation on the windings start breaking down it doesn't take long for failure to occur.

I didn't see mention of the starter or solenoid. Several here have reported they ran the 6v starter on 12v seemingly without issue and suddenly had it fail due to a broken nose casting. Most opinions feel that was caused by the increased torque and the 12v action slamming the pinion into the nose. At the least I would look to see about converting the windings to 12v and getting another solenoid.

Posted on: 2015/12/21 9:33
Howard
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Re: 26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#3
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JWL
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Thanks for the parts list. I will be helpful to others doing a 12-volt change over. Are you using a generator or alternator? Also, which battery, Optima type or conventional wet cell?

(o{}o)

Posted on: 2015/12/21 11:08
We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)
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Re: 26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#4
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Hans Ahlness
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I converted my car also, and here is some info for a 24-25th series car. These are the applicable 12v bulbs:

Instrument lights - 57
Turn signal/hi beam indicator lights - 53
Oil/battery indicator lights - 57
Column shift indicator light, ultramatic - 53
Inside glovebox light - 57
Under dash courtesy lights - 90
Rear dome light - 104
Headlights - H6024 halogen (use relays)
Front park/turn sig lights - 1157A (amber)
Tail/brake lights - 1034 (also could use 1157, 2057, 198)
Reverse lights - 1156 (also 199, 1141)
Rear license light - 67
Trunk light - 89

I had to replace some other components also, using these allows the use of the existing points etc in the distributor:
Coil - NAPA IC12
Ignition ballast - NAPA ICR13

Because I used an aftermarket wiring harness with a fuse box and new horn and turn signal relays, I could also discard the circuit breakers behind the instrument panel and wire components to dedicated fuses.

I also purchased a prewired headlight relay setup from the same vendor, to allow modern halogen headlights while retaining the original headlight switch.

I procured a set of horns and a heater fan from a wrecked '55 which were already 12v.

I did not replace the instrument voltage converter (powers the gas and temp gauges) as the existing unit will work with 12v, it provides an intermittent 5v signal to the gauges.

I didn't replace or convert the starter, although there have been some reports of problems from that so far no issues in 900 miles. But you'll need to replace the starter solenoid switch with a 12v three-terminal unit.

I replaced my generator with a rebuilt Delco 10SI alternator, I used a NAPA p/n 213-4011B reman unit, about 63 amps. Overkill but no cost advantage for going smaller. I got a 3-wire unit, which allows me to wire the BAT idiot light into the alternator wiring - so if the BAT light comes on either the alternator has quit or the belt came off.

There are some other installation details in my project blog, but these are the parts to change.

Posted on: 2015/12/27 23:21
1952 Model 200 Deluxe Touring Sedan
HA's 52 Grey Ghost

"The problem with quotes on the internet is you never know if they're true" - Abraham Lincoln
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Re: 26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#5
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Chris R
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Quote:

HH56 wrote:
Nice list of items and I'm sure others will appreciate your efforts.

Quote:
Stock 6v blower motor also work fine so far.


I'd keep a close eye on the blower motor. Wouldn't be surprised that you will find after a few minutes running the motor housing will be very hot. Once the varnish and enamel insulation on the windings start breaking down it doesn't take long for failure to occur.

I didn't see mention of the starter or solenoid. Several here have reported they ran the 6v starter on 12v seemingly without issue and suddenly had it fail due to a broken nose casting. Most opinions feel that was caused by the increased torque and the 12v action slamming the pinion into the nose. At the least I would look to see about converting the windings to 12v and getting another solenoid.



Thanks HH56,

I will keep an eye on the blower motor once I have her up and running as a daily. Eventually I'd like to convert to a 12v unit once I find one. The conversion list isn't complete as of yet because I am still in the process of doing it. I will update it as I make progress on the conversion.

For the starter setup, I plan on using a 12v Ford starter relay with the factory 6v starter. Hopefully I won't have any problems, if I do then I will definitely look into converting the windings to 12v.


Quote:

JW wrote:
Thanks for the parts list. I will be helpful to others doing a 12-volt change over. Are you using a generator or alternator? Also, which battery, Optima type or conventional wet cell?

(o{}o)



You're very welcome, I definitely hope it does help out others doing the same thing.

I plan on using a Ford 3G alternator for the source of charging and a conventional wet cell battery. I will add part numbers, prices and any other info once I complete that setup.


Quote:

HA52 wrote:
I converted my car also, and here is some info for a 24-25th series car. These are the applicable 12v bulbs:

Instrument lights - 57
Turn signal/hi beam indicator lights - 53
Oil/battery indicator lights - 57
Column shift indicator light, ultramatic - 53
Inside glovebox light - 57
Under dash courtesy lights - 90
Rear dome light - 104
Headlights - H6024 halogen (use relays)
Front park/turn sig lights - 1157A (amber)
Tail/brake lights - 1034 (also could use 1157, 2057, 198)
Reverse lights - 1156 (also 199, 1141)
Rear license light - 67
Trunk light - 89

I had to replace some other components also, using these allows the use of the existing points etc in the distributor:
Coil - NAPA IC12
Ignition ballast - NAPA ICR13

Because I used an aftermarket wiring harness with a fuse box and new horn and turn signal relays, I could also discard the circuit breakers behind the instrument panel and wire components to dedicated fuses.

I also purchased a prewired headlight relay setup from the same vendor, to allow modern halogen headlights while retaining the original headlight switch.

I procured a set of horns and a heater fan from a wrecked '55 which were already 12v.

I did not replace the instrument voltage converter (powers the gas and temp gauges) as the existing unit will work with 12v, it provides an intermittent 5v signal to the gauges.

I didn't replace or convert the starter, although there have been some reports of problems from that so far no issues in 900 miles. But you'll need to replace the starter solenoid switch with a 12v three-terminal unit.

I replaced my generator with a rebuilt Delco 10SI alternator, I used a NAPA p/n 213-4011B reman unit, about 63 amps. Overkill but no cost advantage for going smaller. I got a 3-wire unit, which allows me to wire the BAT idiot light into the alternator wiring - so if the BAT light comes on either the alternator has quit or the belt came off.

There are some other installation details in my project blog, but these are the parts to change.



That's a great addition to the thread HA52! Hopefully between both of our info provided in this thread people will have a very easy time doing the same conversion.

I don't fully understand the need for the headlight relays. On my setup I installed the same bulbs and everything worked without any problems. Is it because I'm still using the factory harness?

-Chris

Posted on: 2015/12/28 4:37
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Re: 26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#6
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HH56
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Quote:
I don't fully understand the need for the headlight relays. On my setup I installed the same bulbs and everything worked without any problems. Is it because I'm still using the factory harness?


There is no absolute need but the main advantage of the relays are to take the heavy current load out of the old headlight and dimmer switches. Dimmer switches can be easily replaced with new but with the headlight switch being old and probably not in prime condition, reducing the load could lead to a longer life. By using the original signal and wires to energize relays instead of bulbs several amps are removed from the switches.

A secondary advantage is to provide a shorter and larger gauge length of wire supplying the bulbs thus making them brighter. By adding relays nearer the bulbs and having a direct separate and protected source of power, the voltage to the bulbs will not be subject to the amount of voltage drop that would normally be present in the original system.

With the factory loom the voltage goes from battery connection at starter solenoid terminal to headlight switch with the wire feeding other items as well. Once lights are on it is out the switch and thru dimmer switch and then to bulbs. Because of the loom routing, that path approximately doubles the length and uses in some cases a fairly small wire gauge. Adding a larger wire with its own CB directly from the starter to the relays and then continuing with the shorter length of original wiring to bulbs would cut that entire path by almost half so less voltage drop.

It may not be as noticeable on 12v but on 6v, providing the bulb grounds and everything else is also good, there has been a demonstrable difference. A poster on one forum used a light meter under controlled conditions in a darkened garage. Did a test with and without relays. I forget the number but he reported a change of several lux.

Posted on: 2015/12/28 10:15
Howard
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Re: 26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#7
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WILLIS BIRKS
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I did my 54 Clipper and found that the horn doesn't sound very good and the blower motor from a 55 Packard fits nicely and works well. I also did my starter as the 6 volt one will eventually break down. All of this was recommended by the experts on this site and I have found their advice to be 100% correct for my 54 Clipper.

Posted on: 2015/12/29 13:49
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Re: 26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#8
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Tobs
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My 53 Clipper was already converted to 12v when I got it in 1995. I drove it about 15 years on the 6v starter, and never broke the starter. I never had to tax the starter too badly, which probably helped. The ring gear on my flywheel was a little worse for wear though. I recently rebuilt the starter with 12v fields, and it still turns over pretty fast when starting.
Converting the solenoid in the Overdrive is another challenge. (Danke Ross)
I also installed a 55/56 blower motor, and my original horns are loooud.

Posted on: 2015/12/30 1:26
1953 Clipper Delux Club Sedan, 1953 Caribbean, 1969 912, 1990 Miata
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Re: 26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#9
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Caribbeandude
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why convert to 12V? these cars operated fine on the original 6V systems. Can't you just add a second 6V battery in series to power needed 12V accessories as worse case?

Posted on: 2015/12/30 2:52
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Re: 26th Series 12v Conversion Thread
#10
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PackardV8
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Because getting GOOD QUALITY NAME BRAND 6v replacement parts whether NOS, NORS or repop is becoming very difficult.

Posted on: 2015/12/30 7:47
VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245
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