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I have a 1934 1100 Packard Standard 8. It starts up fine but when I give it throttle it back fires/ lose of power.

Timing is good, coils are fine. I think it maybe a rich fuel mixture. I do get a lot of white smoke from the tail pipe. How do I adjust the carburetor? The carburetor is a Stromberg EE-2. Any other thought?

Also the Louvers on the radiator do not open or close when the car gets hot/ cold. They are not rusted shut and work fine if I move the lever by hand. (The 5th picture has a blue circle around what I am calling the radiator diaphragm) Could that be my problem? How hard is it to rebuild/ how would I rebuild it?

I do have a broken throttle lever gear and I am missing the rod that connects the throttle gear to the transfer lever on the fire wall. Does anyone have an extra gear and or rod or know where to get one?

Thanks for the help,

John

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Backfire if fuel mixture related is more likely the result of a lean mixture, not rich - have you checked for a vacuum leak? Dual ignition properly synchronized? A lot of white smoke at the exhaust suggests coolant in the combustion chamber, perhaps a blown head gasket or cracked head or block - check for a wet plug or better yet do a compression test.

The carburetor should be an EE-22, as I recall the EE-2 was specified for the Light Eight Model 900 upgrade kit when converting from updraft to downdraft. 1933 and 1934 Eight and Super Eight used the EE-22. Since the engines are nearly identical I suspect an EE-2 should give acceptable results in place of the EE-22, they are nearly identical. If it needs a rebuild, a kit is available from Daytona Parts, but treat it like GOLD and be especially gentle with fuel inlet, extremely difficult to source a replacement carburetor or casting. Good instructions come with the kit. Best way to adjust the idle mixture is with a vacuum gauge, follow the vacuum line from the intake manifold and you'll find a plug you can remove and replace with a nipple for attaching the gauge up near the power brake selector valve. Adjust each throat to leanest mixture consistent with the maximum vacuum. You might also check the fuel bowl level. Specs have been posted here previously, try a search on EE-22 .

Looks like you're missing the carburetor fuel bowl heat shield. The link rod from the automatic choke is incorrect though it may function ok. The original link rod was reproduced by Classic and Exotic in Michigan. The cast iron carburetor base casting should be painted in wrinkle finish black and the upper castings in semigloss black. Screws and external hardware should be nickel plated.

Sounds like you need a new Sylphon thermostat for your shutters, I believe Bill Hirsch still has them new though inventory has been tightening in recent years, I heard that the manufacturer, Robertshaw, has ceased production. There are also repair services for them or if you're handy self-repair may be possible. I suggest getting a new one and keeping your old core as a "just in case" for the future.

The bronze reproduction throttle gear was repro'd by the Mauck's years back but now deceased; it may be available from Max Merritt. The link rod is simple to make, others have done so based on a photo I supplied years ago and probably still have, next time I'm on my PC I'll look for it and post again.

Your model Packard is an Eight, not a Standard Eight, use of the word Standard as part of the model name was dropped after 1932. I've been driving and maintaining my 1934 1100 for nearly 60 years and am quite familiar with it, send me a PM with your phone # if you want to discuss at length.

Pix of hand throttle linkage. Can add pix of correct automatic choke link rod if you wish.

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Owen,

Thanks for all the information and pictures. I was able to find the bronze throttle gear from Max Merritt and have installed it on the car. I will print out your pictures and measure/ make the throttle rod.

I did email Kanter auto about the Sylphon thermostat but have not gotten any response. I will call them Monday. I did go on Bill Hirsch website but he was out of stock.

I did have the engine rebuilt about a year ago. They rebuilt the carb. I will do a compression test and pull a plug out like you said. I will also check for a vacuum leak and adjust the idle mixture with my vacuum gauge.

How do I check to make sure the Dual ignition is properly synchronized? I had the engine shop do this for me when I had the engine rebuilt.


When I go onto Daytona Parts they ask for the carb number for kit fitment. The numbers are 10-1, 10-2, 10-28, 10,34, 10-5, 10-6. I did attach a screen shot of there website for more clarification. I could not find any of these number on my EE-2 carb. Am I not looking hard enough? Where is this number/ what number do you think I need?


Last could you send me a picture of your carburetor fuel bowl heat shield and your link rod from the automatic choke. The last thing I will do once all of this is done is paint the carb.

Thanks for all your help.

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That may be bad news that Hirsch is out of stock with the Sylphon thermostat, I'd check back and see if they anticipate more inventory. Bill Hirsch had an exclusive with Robertshaw (the original manufacturer) to make these and with Bill's passing, perhaps the agreement expired? There are folks who repair them though a name escapes me for the moment.

The Stromberg automatic choke to carburetor rod has a very unique rotating "spool" connector at the bottom, photo of it attached and it's also pictured on page 84 of the 1933-34 Packard Parts List. Classic and Exotic's reproduction was made from my original. The carburetor heat shield may also be pictured in the Parts List, I don't have a photo of it.

When you discussed a carb kit with Daytona, did you tell them you have an EE-2 and not an EE-22? I don't know what differences if any that may make in a rebuild kit. Best to also ask Daytona just where the critical identifying numbers are.

There has been a lot published on synchronizing the 33-34 Eight Northeast distributors. Just keep in mind that you have two independent 4-cylinder ignition systems, each needs to be timed. The Packard 1933-34 Service Letters show the factory tool and this will be helpful to understand. Many owners of these cars have made their own simplified adaption of that tool, a short article on my own take on it is attached. You can check the synchronization in the very typical manner with a timing light, the timing marks are on the front vibration damper. Put the light on #1 to check those 4 cylinders, then put the light on (IIFC) #6 to check the other 4. Both of course should fire at the same point (6 degrees BTDC?). If synchronization is needed, best if off the car on a distributor test bed such as the Sun machine, next best might be a method like mine. YOu can also do it on the car with the timing light, time #1 in the usual way by rotating the distributor body. Then move the light to #6 and if adjustment is required, remove the cap and rotate the set of points on the adjustable base plate as needed. A trial and error and tedious method.

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