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Back to work on the 39
#1
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ewrecks
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After a long delay predating the pandemic but certainly aggravated by it, I have dragged myself back to the garage.
My engine rebuilld is nearly completed and I have the carb and started rebiuilt and am working on cleaning and painting the accessories.
I know the engine color is green. Is that color used for the bell housing and transmission?

I will be rewiring that car and have been checking on the alternator replacement in a stock case. The preliminary info suggests that it will be an easy replacement for the .Autolite unit. The specs say it will put out 60 amps. The vendor asked about pulley size and I hope someone has that info.
There were some earlier posts about compatibility with the stock amp gauge and if anyone has done the conversion please let me know if the original gauge will work.
There was also some earlier comments about whether the Petronix conversion in the 6 volt positive ground was problematic. I have had good luck with the units on other cars but do not wish to make problems .
Because of the difficulty with bell housing and clutch removal even when the engine trans is out of the car, I am thinking of replacing the pressure plate, clutch and throw out while the unit is out. Kanter has replacement but only with an exchange. Is anyone aware of a supplier who has the units in stock without exchange? I am not crazy about spending money for the parts but it seems good insurance.....I just do not like shipping anything now and hoping it arrives . I am still getting .Christmas .cards, two day Priority mail is often taking over a week...and not much better with UPS and FedEX.
Thanks in advance for any help
RJR

Posted on: 1/23 22:08
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Re: Back to work on the 39
#2
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Joe Santana
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Don't quote me, but I believe, if you pay the core charge, you can ship your old core for a credit after you pull it out.

Posted on: 1/24 9:07
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Re: Back to work on the 39
#3
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BigKev
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That is correct.

Posted on: 1/24 9:20
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Re: Back to work on the 39
#4
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ewrecks
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I understand that is the usual arrangement but I was told by Kanter that because people were not returning the cores, Kanter was forced to change its policy for the clutch parts for the 1939 Six.
They need the cores before they will ship the replacement parts.
I do not criticize this action since it will assure that Kanter will continue to offer these parts.
I would prefer to find a clutch and pressure plate that someone purchased and did not use or a possible vendor who is not into rebuilding.

If there is nothing out there immediately available, I will order the pieces from Kanter and immediately ship the cores.

Posted on: 1/24 9:31
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Re: Back to work on the 39
#5
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AJS
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Check local and see if there are any clutch rebuilders near you. I have a local shop that does all the work for a major auto parts chain, check your local auto parts stores for a possible reference. Valley friction is who I use, but I am in Los Angeles, CA

Posted on: 1/24 11:53
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Re: Back to work on the 39
#6
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PackardDon
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You can likely find clutches locally or even find a local shop to rebuild yours (which is what I have always done) although it many cases these replacements are for Ford. If yours is original, it will have the Packard script stamped on it somewhere on the flange where it attaches and, as I understand it, the spring action might be slightly different that may cause clutch chatter when using one of the replacements.

As for color, the rule of thumb is that whatever was painted as part of the assembly was engine color which would include the bell housing, transmission, motor mounts and front timing chain cover and mount, head and its nuts, water outlet, water pump, oil pump etc.

Posted on: 1/24 16:37
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Re: Back to work on the 39
#7
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Owen_Dyneto
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My suggestion is for you to discuss your clutch situation with Fort Wayne Clutch, a major player in the driveline sector.

Posted on: 1/24 16:50
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Re: Back to work on the 39
#8
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Packard Newbie
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Hey RJR,

I would be cautious about having your clutch disc re-sintered as that is what I did on my '39 Six and ended up with an unacceptable level of clutch chatter. I took mine to a proper brake and clutch facility and they riveted new rings on my old disc - it looked fine, but when all assembled, I discovered the problem. Pulling everything apart again to replace the clutch components was a big job, and DEFINTELY not worth what I 'saved' by going the 'cheap' route. The components I got from Kanter had the Packard script Packard Don referred to, and engaging the clutch is now smooth as silk. Wished I'd have known. Chris.

Posted on: 1/24 20:37
'If you think you can, or you think you can't - you're right!' Henry Ford.
1939 Packard Six, Model 1700
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Re: Back to work on the 39
#9
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Joe Santana
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Sounds like you are interested in a Generator-Nator, which looks stock but puts out several times the amps at 6 volts.

Your generator will be gutted using your pulley and housing. It will mount up without modifying the bracket.

Michael sent me this Jay Leno video link.
https://youtu.be/IP0zUbgKVTY
His cost around $1,000 for his '40 180, but he saved having to convert to 12v, which opens a can of worms, while charging his battery much faster and lights shining much brighter. The voltage regulator in electronic and built in, eliminating the coil/contact original (you can leave it mounted on the firewall).

I'm talking myself into getting one myself, but everything on the Duchess electrically is working as it should and Dwight provided halogen sealed beams, so I'll wait until I'm 80.

Posted on: 1/24 21:03
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Re: Back to work on the 39
#10
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PackardDon
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Rather that going that route, for my 1954 I am planning on having the original generator rebuilt to higher average at idle, then installing a solid-state voltage regulator. Of course, it is remaining 6v as there is no compelling reason for my needs to convert it and there is nothing, including charging devices, that can’t be done on 6v. USB is 5v anyway!

Posted on: 1/24 21:43
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