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I have a '35 12 coupe roadster. On the convertible top, the screws attaching the top bows to the metal pieces are coming out. (A few have come out already, and I'm stuck taping the top bows to the metal as a stop-gap to keep the structure together. Not very attractive!) I need to buy new screws, at least 5, to keep it all tight and secure.

Does anyone know which screws are correct for this? I have tried to include pictures below so you can see the screws I am referring to. Thanks!

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I cannot say I know, but the way to check is to remove a screw that is left, measure its diameter then check its pitch. (It will either be fine or coarse.) If you do not have a pitch gauge simply find a nut that it screws into easily to identify the thread count (pitch). I suspect it is a 1/4-28 NFT flat head slot screw. I am not sure if you can get a chromed one easily but if you get a stainless steel one it can be polished. Length is also adjustable. You can always trim long screws and chamfer the cut end and then run a die over the threads so they turn smooth. Good luck!
Bob J.

I don't have documentation, but I think originally those were very precise fitting flat head wood screws so that the finished surface was smooth to the touch. That all goes out the window once the parts go to a plating shop.

Those screws should be attaching the mechanism to the wooden side bar so there are a couple of options. The quick and dirty method is to cram some wooden match sticks into the holes using carpenter's glue, drill a pilot hole, and run a screw in using soap as a lubricant. The second method is to detach the metal parts and glue dowel stock in place and then drill a new pilot hole for the screw. When drilling for the dowel stock either a depth stop on the drill bit or a protective metal plate should be used to prevent damaging the canvas top.

You can remove one of the remaining screws to verify the screws are securing the metal to wood.

If the screws are missing and they are regular thread wood screws, Restoration Specialtieshttps://www.restorationspecialties.com has a decent size assortment of both chromed and stainless oval head wood screws. Oval heads have a slightly more finished look than regular flat heads.

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I have a bunch of zinc and brass round head wood screws let me know if you need any

Thanks, all. Here's what the screw looks like.

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That would be my way to fix this problem.
Why the screws come out of the wood bows … because the wood is now 87 years old dry and the whole top frame is “flexible” and shaking and rattle all the time if the car is running.
There is no way that screws in original size will hold the metal frame piece properly into the wood.
So … I use only stainless steal and select the next size of diameter. Over here in Germany the size grows up by 0.5mm. That’s perfect for this problem. But the head of the shrew has a bigger diameter which will not fit into the funnel (?) hole. So I use the lathe (which everybody has in his basement … I hope) and make the hut the same size like the original one. Then I polish the hut on my polishing stand (which also everybody has in his basement or garage)
Now the screw will sit strong into the old wood hole and if you put a little (!!!) drop of this special PU glue “Titebond” on the tip of the thread.
The only what additional is to do … open the diameter of the hole into the top frame piece. DON`T try to do this with a drill in a drill machine by hand. If you try this … the drill will pull you very fast to the metal right trough the wood and the hood fabric. Use a “Dremel” or a drill stop tool as you see it into the pictures.
Hope this is helpful …
Karl
And … have fun on my English grammar.

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These have what is called the oval head which is like a flathead with a slight radius.

The hardware store has Mr. Grip, like little rectangles off a cheese grater that you can cut in strips with a scissors, fold over and stuff in the hole with the small diameter dowelling or match sticks. Then use the same size as original screws.

A little wood glue and pieces of broken wood toothpicks will also do the trick. Otherwise the holes can be plugged with a wood dowel, then redrilled.