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Anybody have experience with the engine rebuild kits from Kanter? Do they include wrist pins in the 'Pin fitted pistons' ?
Thanks guys.
Mike

Have used Kanter's and Terrell's stuff with good results. "Pin fitted" means that the pins come with the pistons.

Has the engine been disassembled yet for inspection???? i.e. disassembled to determine what piston and rod and main bearing oversizes/undersizes are needed????

Yes the Engine has already been taken apart and all is measured. all bearings will be standard, and pistons and Rings will be + .020.
Also new exhaust valves and ex guides will go in as well as 3 new lifters.
Was planning to get Kanters "M" Kit plus The few extras.
The Engine builder wanted to clean/Mill The 288 Head I gave him. So we are going to compare my 1954 327 Head with The 288 Head for cc and surface finish and use which one looks best.

Before you consider milling the head, don't forget to check for adequate clearance for the valve lift. Many a good head rendered useless by not measuring first.

Right, when he said he wanted to Mill The 288 head, I told him I would bring the 327 head and we can compare the two for compression ratio and surface finish. I will also ask him to be careful of valve/head clearance.

If upon disassembly and inspection there was no indication of leakage of any kind then there is no reason to mill the head unless it's for for more compression/hi-perf.

Also watch head gasket thickness compared to any oem or removed gasket. Not much u can do about if it is thicker. I've used plenty of them especialy on ohv engines but don't really like them. But it is nice to know whatu have when u get finished.

EDIT:
For that matter, how do u know or don't know that the head hasn't already been milled at least once, maybe twiced???

IF was running ok before and showed no signs of leakage then leave it alone!!. IF it ain't broke don't fix it just for "insurance".

Well, I pulled the trigger and have a 'master' rebuild kit on the way from New Jersey to Munich. Should be here in a week or two....They don't stock cyl head studs(so I was told), so I will try and pull one or two out of my spare block for use in the good block.

Any suggestions on how to get head studs out easily? Soak in penetrating oil for a few days and then 2 nuts on the stud and leverage?

Gutenacht.

ARP should be able to provide you with new studs.

Good call with ARP!...Anybody know the dimensions? (nice to have a warm fuzzy feeling of help from the forum after shelling out a ton of euros for parts)
hmmm, cool racing parts on the clipper!