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A couple of things to report.

The aforementioned tire, the 7.00 R15, sounds like an excellent solution, even though they are advertised in the Diamondback catalog as a replacement for 1947 and earlier cars. I checked my very old and crusty looking spare, which is probably OE if not almost original. It is the correct size for my 22nd Series Super Eight according to the original documentation that I have downloaded. A 7.60-15 Goodyear to be exact.

It is worn out. No discernible tread left, but amazingly holds air after filling it from dead flat. Filling it allowed me to get a pretty good measurement, although the overall height will be off due to the lack of tread. Here is what I came up with:

Height: 27.5"
Tread width: 5"
Cross section: 7"

I know all brands are not created equal, and exact dimensions of the same size tire may differ among brands, but from this I have decided that the Diamondback 7.00 R15 may work well. Advertised dimensions are:

Height: 29.4"
Tread width: 4.9"
Cross section: 7.7"

Pretty close when you add the tread back to the worn out Goodyear. My concern when I first considered the Diamondback was that a 7.00 would not be adequate for a vehicle that called for a 7.60, but it sounds like it will be durn near perfect in both height and width.

So Diamondback it will be, with the widest whitewall I can get. When I get the funds.

Second bit of news, next post.

The gas tank repair is a success!

I used the Eastwood kit, $49.95, as opposed to the $400+ RENU USA repair which I simply could not afford. I was very careful to get as much rust out as I could, using the tried and true "strap the tank to a cement mixer and put nuts and bolts in it" method. I did it with Evapo-Rust added to the mix, although I could have done it dry. I don't think it helped, actually, it is mostly the physical action of the metal knocking the rust off the inner surface. I also added two 2' pieces of 1" wide chain.

It was very noisy.

Some people use pebbles instead of nuts and bolts, but you can't pour stuff out of a Packard tank due to the filler extending into the tank, and it's really hard to get pebbles out with a magnet.

After a morning of monotonous racket, I rinsed all of the Evapo-Rust out and gave it the 20:1 muriatic acid treatment. Twice, rinsing clean after each time.

It seems like it is next to impossible to get all of the little rust particles out of the tank, but the metal looked clean, so after rinsing the acid out completely, I went on with the next step, which is coating the inside with the Eastwood Fast Etch acid. Before that dries, you are instructed to rinse the tank with acetone twice, and I used at least a quart and a half each time.

Then you shake the bottles of white sealer, and add both to the tank, swirling it all around to get an even coating everywhere. Let it sit ten minutes, and slosh again, letting it sit in a different orientation, and after ten more minutes, drain. You can save the leftover coating for a smaller tank if you need it. You save the Fast Etch too, as it can also be reused.

Any tiny particles of rust that remained in the tank are now firmly fixed in place with this white coating.

After letting the whole thing dry for 48 hours, I reinstalled the sending unit and mounted the tank back under the trunk.

It works.

I've been driving all over, and I have no filter between the tank and the fuel pump.

For the first time today, around 6PM, I decided to drive to a car show about 12 miles from my shop. This is my first time at a show with a Packard, and I must say, there was more interest in this unrestored, dented up car with no paint job, rear bumper, and ratty interior than I've ever had from any other car I've ever showed, including my son's beautifully restored '63 T-Bird.

The car ran perfectly all the way there, and back in the dark (first night drive), cruising at 55 most of the way in overdrive.

I pulled up at a light near my shop on the way back after a sustained 55 mph run, and heard a ticking noise I had never heard before. I thought I had developed a valve problem- maybe the run had caused one to go out of adjustment... revving the engine a couple of times, the tempo of the ticking did not increase correspondingly... and then the 2006 Expedition next to me pulled away, and with it went the ticking!

This Packard is amazing.

Gotta love it!!

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"but you can't pour stuff out of a Packard tank due to the filler extending into the tank"

Pour them out thru the sender unit hole????

That is awesome joeyearl! Glad to hear she runs so smoothly. Your build is inspiring, hope mine can preform as good as your '48. A 64 year old car running better than a 6 year old car, haha, gotta love it! You should post a video of you drivin' her.

-Garrett

Quote:
Did you ever play that game where you had to tilt a box to make a ball bearing go through a hole? It ain't easy. Try that with 150 nuts and bolts!

Many tanks have the filler tube that ends where it joins the tank. You can pour stuff out because it acts like a funnel. Not so with the Packard tank, at least my '48. I don't know for sure about other years, but I figure they're pretty much the same.

I used a telescoping magnet through the sender hole, with still a lot of shaking around to get 'em all.

Glad to hear you enjoyed showing your car! It's a great feeling the first time you cruise further than around the block. Keep at it - it will get even better.

Thanks, Randy. It is a great feeling to represent the Packard community.

BTW, I have to thank all you guys on this forum, from Kevin on down the list... I couldn't have done it without all the help, advice, info, and support. Is this a great place, or what?

Quote:

Your words are my words.

Tom

Quote:
I am planning on doing a video as soon as possible.

It is amazing... the more I drive her, the better she gets!

So far, I'm still completely satisfied with the Eastwood gas tank repair. And the NAPA wheel cylinders that I slightly modified are performing better than I expected.