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help with coil replacement
#1
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John Miller
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We have a 1940 110, the coil needs to be replaced.
The original coil with the heavy metal housing is over $400 to replace.
Is there an after market replacement available?
Are there any suggested wiring changes when the replacement coil is Installed?
thank You
John Miller

Posted on: 2012/6/6 19:07
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Re: help with coil replacement
#2
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HH56
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I don't believe there is any aftermarket coil available that is drop in but will defer to others there. If not, replacement depends on whether you want to keep a stock look. If you have the regular coil mounted on the firewall, then have heard of one method to use a modern coil and hide it. There may be others and if so, we'll both learn something.

I know the purists will shudder and I hesitate to bring this method up but I've heard of some gutting the old coil from the can leaving can hollow and mounted on the firewall as usual. Keep the armor cable and bottom coil cover intact for future use if someone wants to revert. Of course, gutting would probably negate any exchange if there is such a thing for those particular coils.

They then mounted a modern universal coil up behind the dash inside passenger cmpt and connected the armored cable wire to the proper terminal. The other terminal going to dist was run thru the hollow can and connected inside to the still remaining terminal for the old coil connection to dist. The old high tension terminal center was drilled out and a longer lead was passed thru the hole and can to new coil. The old boot was slid on the new cable to the old coil position to make it look stock.

If you are not worried about stock, the you could just disconnect the armored cable from old coil, remove the old coil assy from firewall and mount a new universal coil and holder in it's place. Splice or do what is needed to lengthen and bring the battery wire from armored cable either thru the old coil hole opening covering the large opening with something having a grommeted hole just large enough for the wire or a solid cover and run the wire thru one of the a regular wire holes.

Purists will shudder twice with that second method. On either method, keep the armor section intact so the switch assy can be exchanged for a rebuilt should the need arise.

Posted on: 2012/6/6 19:50
Howard
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