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Gentleman (and ladies too) of all knowing Packard Land,
This is my first topic on the website, and only my second time posting so go easy on me if this has been written before. :) I have just got my 51' "300" going for the first time in almost 20yrs. I would now like to change ALL fluids on this vehicle but I am not able to locate a single go to chart that will tell me what the best modern day fluids would be for my application. What I am looking for is.....
1) Oil type
2) Brake fluid type
3) Coolant type (straight or 50/50 mix)
4) Transmission fluid type

Let me know if I am missing anything and thanks all in advance for your extensive knowledge. This website has taken me from "0" Packard knowledge to having a pretty good idea of what I am doing now.

Use the "search" function and you'll find some responses to an almost identical question a few days ago. In a nutshell:

I'd avoid 10W-40 oil, if your engine is in good shape and you live in a reasonable climate, 10W-30 would be a good choice, 15W-40 a better choice.

Unless you're going to completely flush the brake system and change over all the rubber components, you should stick to the same brake fluid that was in it, as modern silicone type which some people prefer isn't compatible with the traditional types. If your system wasn't converted to silicone, DOT-3 is probably what is already in it.

You pay more for coolant that's used full strength because it's already diluted. Matter of cost whether to use it or the convention (green) stuff, just read the chart for the protection you need for your cold weather, the additive packages for corrosion control and pretty much the same. Don't use the modern "red" stuff.

I guess you transmission is Ultramatic? If so I'd use Type F or FA; if it's stick, SAE 85W-140 HP gear oil, and the same stuff in the rear axle and steering gear box.

Thanks for the quick reply Owen, one last question though. I have no way of knowing what type of brake fluid would have been used in this vehicle. Is there any way to determine what is actually in the master cylinder (dot 3 vs. dot 4) or is just a shot in the dark. My wifes grandfather who I got the car from has since passed and there is nobody left to ask any history on the veh or the veh maintenance.

You can comingle Dot3 and Dot4, but not with DOT5. If you're in the least unsure of the brake system, best advice would be to pull all the drums, replace all the hoses, rebuild the wheel and master cylinder, do what's needed for the linings and drums, and then refill with the fluid of your choice.

Didn't we just cover this topic???

As for the brake fluid, the quickest way I know to tell if it's DOT 3 or DOT 5 is to drain some out and pour it onto the hood. If it eats the paint all off, it's DOT 3, if it doesn't, it's DOT 5.

(Seriously, DO NOT DO THIS!!)

Quote:

DOT 3 and DOT 4 are compatible and can be mixed so either will do. DOT 3 is probably what is in the car now as this is the most common type used in American cars. DOT 5 is silicone based and is NOT compatible with either DOT 3 or 4! Eric's test is tongue in cheek I'm sure but valid in the sense that the DOT 3 or 4 will stain or even lift paint so be careful not to spill it on a painted surface. I cannot tell you how to differentiate between DOT 3 or 5 but if you take a sample of what is in the car to a brake shop they may be able to tell you.

Let me just repeat for emphasis; if this is the first time this car will be on the road in 20 years, I wouldn't go 5 feet in it w/o a complete review of all the brake components, and replacement of at least the wheel cylinder and master cylinder rubber parts, and the hoses. Your chances that the brake system will be reliable and safe after all that storage are about NIL.

Owen. Great advice! On my '47 the brakes had a hard pedal and the brakes appeared to be fine when I bought it after basically sitting for 20 years. Three out of four wheel cylinders were seized and the fluid within them had turned to a powder. In yard driving the car it was stopping on one wheel! It is essential that all the brake system be inspected before moving the car.

So here is another question on fluids. I have read the previous threads on this issue but I am still a little fuzzy on this one. Gas...... (grade, and lead or no lead). What was specifically called for in 1951 for the "300"?? I have been told that only leaded gas was available back then, is this true? To get the thing started I dumped 5 gallons of regular unleded (87 octane) in it (no lead additive) and it is running like a dream, now granted the car has only run for about two to three hours (and at idle at that) since I got it running. But I guess the reason that I am asking this question is that I am trying to look forward to the long term on engine wear. I am trying to baby this engine as long as I can so I will not have to rebuild it due to premature wear that could have been easily avoided.

With the exception of AMOCO premium and perhaps a few others, all gasoline contained tetraethyl lead until perhaps 20 years ago. Also gas in that era had the octane rating determined by the "motor" method, whereas today it's done by an average of the motor and "research" method. Without going into the differences, regular unleaded (87 octane) is more than adequate for your car. As far as the tetraethyl lead goes, if you're going to make a regular habit of agressive, high speed driving, you might consider buying the lead and adding (here in the US it's legal for you to do that, it's just not legal for a gasoline retailer to dispense it into an automobile).

If the time comes for an engine rebuild and you are still intending to drive regularly at high speeds, you might want to consider modern metalurgy exhaust valves and hardened seat inserts.

As far as engine wear goes, the prior engine condition and your maintenance and driving habits are the most significant factors. Of course you should drop the oil pan, clean it and the inlet screen of the pump, and as the engine has been idle for so long, make your first few oil changes at relatively frequent intervals.