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« 1 (2) 3 4 5 6 »

Re: OVERHEATING
#11
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WILLIS BIRKS
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Looking at the gasket pictures on the photo archive, do I need two gaskets when I pull the water pump and distribution tube?

Posted on: 2012/7/16 8:13
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Re: OVERHEATING
#12
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Owen_Dyneto
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There are two gaskets involved with the pump assembly and it's mounting to the engine but one is within the water pump assembly (between the body and back cover plate); the other is used to mount the pump to the block. So unless you plan on taking the pump apart you only need the single gasket. And it's a simple enough gasket to make from gasket paper if you don't have one and don't want to buy a gasket.

Posted on: 2012/7/16 8:32
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Re: OVERHEATING
#13
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WILLIS BIRKS
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I have been looking for a supplier for the one piece oil pan gasket and other gaskets. Who has them all at the best price?

Posted on: 2012/7/16 10:21
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Re: OVERHEATING
#14
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Joseph Earl
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I bought mine from Peter Fitch at packardp@aol.com. Completely satisfied with the product and service. $25 to my door in just a couple of days.

Posted on: 2012/7/16 12:03
Joey

(?=#=?)

"If chrome got me home, I'd for sure still be stuck somewhere."

[url=http://pac
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Re: OVERHEATING
#15
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WILLIS BIRKS
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Dropped off the radiator today, cost will be $145 to rod it out and clean it up. The dealer said it had tubes clogged and probably was the cause of my overheating. I guess I will try installing the radiator before pulling the pump and distribution tube. Double the work if the radiator doesn't do the job. A lot of work saved if the radiator was the problem. THANKS to everyone for their knowledge and help ! Even though every year there is one of us asking the same questions you have fielded for years , I think most of you enjoy helping out the new guys. I will do the same as I learn and put in my suggestions to help also.

Thanks again

Posted on: 2012/7/16 16:02
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Re: OVERHEATING
#16
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JWL
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WILLIS,

Strongly recommend that you pull the water pump and distribution tube while the radiator is out of the car. This will be a good time to back flush the block and head.

The procedure I use is:

With the water pump and tube out;

the thermostat housing on the head, but the thermostat removed;

place a garden hose that has had the end taped with duct tape so that it fits securely into the opening;

and run water until it comes out clear.

You may want to remove the block drain plug and run water to make sure it runs clear too.

This is a simple and easy job to do and you have the perfect opportunity with the radiator out.

Plus, and most importantly, you do not want to plug up your just cleaned up radiator with junk from the head and block.

Reassemble with good hoses and clamps, thermostat, and cap.

Good luck.

(o[]o)

Posted on: 2012/7/16 17:15
We move toward
And make happen
What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer)
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Re: OVERHEATING
#17
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Owen_Dyneto
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I strongly agree with JW, there will be no other as opportune a time to flush the block and keep the debris from clogging a freshly cleaned radiator.

I'm glad to hear the radiator was partially clogged; as I indicated to you earlier, though it may be in combination with other issues the radiator is most always the primary candidate to evaluate first.

Posted on: 2012/7/16 17:27
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Re: OVERHEATING
#18
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WILLIS BIRKS
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That would be bad news to add the remaining rust and particles back into the clean radiator. Who makes the one piece gasket for the 288 oil pan?

Posted on: 2012/7/16 21:58
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Re: OVERHEATING
#19
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WILLIS BIRKS
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Took the water pump and distribution tube out today and flushed the block. Just rust colored water no heavy particles or clogging of the tube. Ready to install the radiator, but it is now 102 and I am done for the day. Picking up the radiator later today, installing early in the morning tomorrow.

Posted on: 2012/7/18 14:39
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Re: OVERHEATING
#20
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WILLIS BIRKS
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Ran engine today, guage still peaks in 2 minutes. Changed to a thread on post war Packards today to ask questions about the heat riser.

Posted on: 2012/7/25 10:06
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