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I picked up a Buick 200 4R transmission that I plan to install in my 51 model 200. A friend of mine at Wilcap is going to make me an adapter plate. I'm hoping somebody on this forum has their 288/327/359 engine on the ground or possibly an Ultramatic that can measure the bellhousing bolt spacing.

Look up user Ross on here. He probably even knows the spacing.

I pulled mine out yesterday.

Hi Blackbeerd, can I trouble you to take a picture of the back of the engine and to measure the spacing of the bellhousing bolts and flywheel to crankshaft bolts? We may also need to measure how far the crank flange sticks out past the bellhousing mounting surface, but I think that's all we need to engineer our adapter.

I would wonder if ordinary measurements would be accurate enough for locating holes in an adapter to keep a precise center. Same with the crank.

As some of those with a certain V8 conversion found, the least error results in vibration -- to say nothing of damage to flexplate, torque converter or bushings if things are off more than a few thousandths.

Some automatics without locator pins even required a dial gauge so as to center the bellhousing to engine and crank before bolts were tightened.

Good point HH56. I own a machine shop so I think I can accurately measure this.

It might be a couple of days before I separate the engine/trans. When I do, I'll make a CAD drawing and post it.

That would be incredibly awesome, thanks in advance Blackbeerd!

Got it apart today. Here's what I measured.

From the flex plate face where the torque converter bolts to the block face is 1.500"


Crank flange to block face 1.091"

Crank pilot is 3.122" OD and 1.847" ID.

.375" alienment pins are 9.875" apart.

4.875" from the center line of the crank to the passenger side pin.

5.000" from crank to drivers side pin

both pins are on the vertical centerline of the crank.

Bolt holes are .456" dia.

bottom holes are down 1.6875" from the pins on both sides

drivers side holes are up 3.000" and over 3.8125" from the crank for one and up 6.375" and over 2.000" for the other

Passenger side holes are up 3.875" and over 2.750" from the crank for one and the other is up 6.375" and over 2.000"

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I want to get back to the point that HR56 made. Always indicate the transmission/engine joint when ever you mate two together that haven't been before, if they are not on machined bosses.

Look at the pics I posted. The bell housing is machined to fit the two pieces together and the transmission is also a machined boss. But the bell housing to engine joint is on pins. At the factory, they would put on the bell housing and tap it around until it was in line and then they would ream the holes and push the pins in.

That's what you will need to do with your adaptor plate. Bolt it to the transmission first because the newer machining will be more accurate and most likely the machinist will be able to match the hole spacing to the point that it will be in place without moving when removed and replaced. Then bolt it to the engine without the torque converter or flex plate. Indicate the two shafts together and the ream the pin holes to the next size bigger.

Looking at the pics again, I see I will need to get you the starter location too.

That won't be until Monday.