Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

I tried to adjust the brakes, starting with the right front wheel. I turned the start the wrong way, then turned it back until the wheel locked, then backed it off until the wheel turned freely, per manual.

But when I went to measure the distance between the brake shoe and drum, should be .015 in., it was like 3/16 in. ... like .18. Puzzled, but thinking it has something to do with the eccentric, measured the clearance on the left front wheel, since I hadn't touched that.

I rotated the inspection slot to the 5 o'clock position and stuck the .015 feeler gauge in. It came out greasy black. I hadn't touched the left wheel. How could it be messed up?

I decided to pull the hub of the right wheel and have a look. Everything looks right, except the adjustment is tightened almost all the way, sucking the bottom of the shoes in toward each other.

I decided to look at the left front wheel. There's grease everywhere.
About 4 months ago, my son helped me pack the wheel bearings. He's knowledgeable mechanically, but he lives an hour away. The brakes have been fine since then, until only recently they felt like they needed adjusting.

Perhaps I only needed to adjust the pedal.

In applying the brakes, they never pulled to the right or left.

I'm going to clean off the left wheel.

Look at it as an investment. It took me 2 weeks to learn to do a basic tune-up, but I can do the entire thing now from replacing plugs and assembling/setting points, to timing. I won't have to ask about that issue again, knock on wood.

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It appears I need a wheel seal assembly. It looks like it is pressed into the hub, so I may not be able to do that. I've wiped it all down. I'll get some brake cleaner and clean it all, reassemble and get it to a brake place next week. An old brake place.

Sounds like you're speaking of the front hub. Replacing the seal is about as simple as it gets - nothing to get intimidated about. You can either pry it out, or using a fairly long drift you can drive it out from the far side. Then just press the new one in, making sure to start it square to the opening in the hub. A good practice is to use a large socket or something similar to tap it in without damaging it. Make sure you've got it facing the right way - the open face of the seal towards the lubricant. If the new seal happens to be leather, soak it or wet it with motor or gear oil first. If the seal is synthetic, just a wipe of grease on the surface is all that's needed.

PS - with the seal out, always a good opportunity to clean and inspect the wheel bearings and repack them.

For front wheel seal, go here and see post #37 and on....
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... lat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=30

Dear Joe:

The procedure in the manual only works when the parts are within spec. - read new.

What you need to do is send the drums and shoes to a place like Fort Wayne Clutch and have the shoes fitted to the drums.

To start, the slot in the eccentric should be near straight up and down with eccentric in the upward/rearward. You will notice the one tab is higher than the other. If I remember correctly the high tab goes toward the back. But it's a straight forward check as turning the eccentric in the direction of wheel rotation should be moving the secondary closer to the drum.

Also, do not overgrease wheel bearings. There is a vortex action in the hub that causes grease to fly out.

You can buy a gadget called a Handi-Packer that will fill the bearing with the correct amount of grease. Use number 2 trailer or wheel bearing grease. Clean all grease out of the hub. Don't pack grease into the hub.

Hope this helps, and note that given the drums are worn the car should not be operated in a severe manner.

Turned drums and brake shoes have only 3,000 miles. I'm not leaking fluid anywhere.

I will use all this help to get the brakes adjusted and that wheel sealed.

Tim, I'll check the position of the untouched eccentric on the left front wheel, to approx how it should be on the right one, and readjust.

Vaughn said the right front, which is out of adjustment, is riding on a ridge, so when I apply the brakes it feels like the pedal is high, but when I put pressure on the pedal, it drops down to where the pedal was normally before I tried to adjust (monkeyed with) it. The shoe is finding its rightful place.

And thanks for the cues. We probably slapped too much grease on that bearing, but the seal could be old.

I'll get a Handi-Packer. I have wheel bearing grease.

Depending on availability and cost, I prob should replace both front seals together.

West, The photos are a big help. I'll look for a seal driver, too.

Imagine, a couple years ago when I started in earnest, I just had a pair of pliers.

We'll see how it goes tonight. Also running the test on my vacuum advance. Then on to the carburetor. Take your hands off your eyes.

Seals shouldn't cost any more than $10-20 for a pair.

An easy way to remove the old seal is to remove the drum and the outer bearing, then put the drum back on without the outer bearing, install the water and nut loosely, and pull the drum off with a little force when the washer contacts the inner bearing, so the washer pops the inner bearing and seal out.

Worked like a charm for me. No tool needed.

West-

In looking at Peterson's 1940 Packard post #37. the words say tap it from the inside of the hub to push the inner bearings out and the seal will drop out. But the picture shows someone tapping the outside of the hub.

A similar confusion with post #38, if you tapped from the inside, how does the race stick up on the inside?

I'm going to tap it from the inside and see what comes out. Napa needs a number. Once I see what comes out, I'll probably under the words and pictures better than I do now.

I was mixing up the inside of the hub with the inside of the wheel. So to tap the inner wheel bearing out, I should set the wheel on the ground with the hub side up. Get a long tool and stick it down into the hub and start tapping around the edges.

Let me tell you, I don't relish tapping on a bearing. My sockets are too big or too small to slip inside and line up with the bearing.

But I won't be tapping from the inside of the wheel.

edit2 The inner bearing and seals are out. It was easy as instructed. I used the handle of my hammer, so tapping with wood on the bearing. Reduced risk of damage.

The Packard part # for the seal for 1803 is 316756 (supercedes 302680). The seals installed have a stamped number of 18149...CR...USA.

The dimensions should be Outer Diam = 2.734 +/- .002
Inner Diam = 1.750
Width = 31/64

So tomorrow we'll see what NAPA turns up.

Joe

Dear Joe:

The correct procedure is to use a seal puller. But given some of those seals are not available very careful tapping with a drift will coax them out without damage to the bearing cage or seal.

In the flat rate service world nobody gets paid for such procedures so they blast away and replace all parts. But the seal puller is still the fastest method and guarantees the bearing is not damaged. You can buy a puller at any auto parts store that carries tools.