Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

That's why I love this site! Thanks every body. That pic of the caps really helps, but I'll look at the one at NAPA and report back if it's the right one after all.

Thanks again.

Yes, I KNOW the car is not the right paint, but it's not bad, is it? GM Teal metalllic (the old Camaro color from gen 3).

The car's Paint Code is given on a STICKER on the right outside of the glove box, believe it or not.

It's:

Paint Scheme H

Trim Code 96 (funny looking "6", might be a lower-case "b"...

ALSO, a paint code is on the side of the glove box on a piece of masking tape, printed by hand. It is:

Paint Code B 8099 ALT 1

That may be for the new incorrect paint-- or for the interior paint?

The firewall looks like the same non-metallic medium blue as the top and trunk of our old '55 Clipper.

The VIN is 5492-7662

SO I need to figure out what that's all about, even before I put it in the registry. (Sorry Oz, but I need to get more details and a couple better pics).
And say, I finally figured out your crazy Avatar when I had to type it-- Aussie Stat Man indeed.

Dual listing of radiator caps for 51-54 can be explained, in part, by an article in SC Vol. 27, No. 2, p. 11.

Then, the Numerical Index from the 55-56 parts book shows the P/N for the 12# cap superseded by the P/N for the 13# cap as listed in the 51-54 parts book.

Yet, 55-56 parts book shows 12# cap for the V8s.

Quote:

The paint and trim code descriptions can be found in the Introduction section of the 1948-54 parts book on this site.

Paint code H is listed as BF-2916 Bikini Blue Metallic for the 54th Series

Interior paint code for a blue car is most likely E-4340, Gray Blue. There is also a code E-4341 shown for Gray.

Trim code 96 is for a dark blue broadcloth with light blue stripe.

OK, I think I'm getting it. The radiator cap for '54 was a 13# one regardless of the 7# on listed, also for '54, on the part nos. posted by Big Kev?

On the paint, well it's great to hear it's that pretty metallic "Bikini Blue" like Kev's car--twins? But the firewall doesn't look particularly metallic.

The interior paint is definitely a "gray-blue" and yes, the seats are blue and whit striped broadcloth with with light gray trim. The headliner looks pretty clean and the same color as the seat trim.

All in all, it's in pretty good shape inside. I can't complain. The floor covering is plain old rubber, but the trunk has dark blue carpeting. I'm wondering if the original carpeting on the floors was removed. Some surface rust under the driver's side, which was the only place I checked, unfortunately, and one pencil eraser size hole.

Maybe the exterior paint is correct? I only have the word of the brother of the previous owner, who passed away 10 years ago. He might've done it right (see pic).

Anybody recognize the hand-printed codes from the masking tape I mentioned? I think this may be the actual (incorrect) paint last applied. Maybe it was the closest match available at the body shop or off the shelf.

More to come. Thanks again everybody. Nice to be a Man Who Owns One at last.

Bikini blue is a very odd color and kinda rare. If is a metallic, but the metallic flake is so fine, it almost looks like a pearl. The problem is that the original Bikini Blue paint oxidizes horribly and takes on a darker color, so it may not look correct. You would need to get the paint chips sheets to compare.

Best to find a place on the car where that Bikini blue has been shielded from the sun and elements, and then buff it with compound to try to get a sense of what the color originally looked like.

Kev,

Yes, I think that makes sense because the fellow that had it before me seems to have been pretty meticulous about getting things right, and he may have opted for closest match he could find and documented it (hence, the home-made tape sticer that gives a different paint code).

This paint has a definite metallic to it. Very nice, but too green to be the real Bikini Blue. I've seen it on cars and ads (most of which you posted). The paint on the FIREWALL is even faded! So apparently, it was kind of a disappearing paint.

Hey, blue often used to fade-- look at how blue jeans still do. It was kind of a rule of thumb in the old days (before "pre-washed") that you ALWAYS washed yer blue jeans several times separately before daring to mix them with other colors. Blue was not "colorfast" until fairly recently (at least in my perspective of "recently").

I think this car is going to have the paint that's on it for quite a while. Big money. Hope yours turns out Bikini-perfect. I'll be watching it all the way on your blog.

With the amount of rust that was on my car, I often have joked that the metal flake in the paint rusted first. lol

The title of my Clipper gives the VIN as the Thief Proof number. Is this common practice? I would think maybe since the stamped plate just gives the model (same for all) and, I believe usually the trim codes.

When the car was new probably the motor number was used. I believe that was what Packard recommended. It also appears since there was no standard method in use like modern VIN's each state was able to pick and choose whichever number on the car they liked that fit their needs. Upon later re-registering, particularly with only a bill of sale, it appears lots of states used the thief proof number because it was permanent and prominent.

My 47 is one of those registered with the thief proof number. In my case it was because the car was unlicensed for a long time and title had been out of the Calif system for years. No previous record existed as they only stay inactive in the system here for 5 years.

When the car was re-registered and inspected, even though there was a title the inspector chose the thief proof number because he saw it couldn't be removed. My 56 on the other hand had always been registered and licensed so when I got it title was transferred and registered with the normal number.

Thanks HH!

But what is the "normal number" used on your '56? From the stamped plate or the engine? I don't have the car right now-- took it to a good shop to check brakes and a bunch of other less important details (what makes it stop is always more important than what makes it go, IMO), so I'm not sure if it's the engine number or the thief-proof until I get another look.

Thanks again.