Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

New shoes should not have anything to do with preventing the light from operating assuming they were installed and hydraulic system stayed intact.

If stock, the brake lights are operated by the typical hydraulic pressure switch. Assuming you have power and good hydraulic pressure for a firm pedal, then unless a wire got knocked off the switch or disconnected as it goes thru the 6 wire round plug to turnsignal switch, the hydraulic switch has given up. If all that checks good, there is a slight chance the turnsignal switch is acting up.

Turn signals work fine. As mentioned, there's a vacuum leak in the MC, so that could have something to do with it. I thought there would be a mechanical pedal travel switch. I will check the 6 wire plug. Assume it's under the dash. I've been rooting around under there and may have disconnected it.

But the brakes are only getting the hydraulic pressure my foot can give them. I know, Ouch! But I'm being careful moving the car around... now. I know the lights were working when I drove it up here, or I wouldn't have driven it. Checked them again after I got it from the shop and they weren't working. It's only out of generosity and curiousity that I'm looking at it myself.

It's going back for a parking brake adjustment (needs to be tighter-- at least they got it lubed so both sides are working now) and will have them check the brake light switch if I can't get it fixed myself.

I'm just walking back and forth diddling w it in the driveway, and it's pretty cold today. Have scrrewdriver, will travel.

And YES Ozstatman, I do have all the numbers now to put the car in the registry.

Also look at the brass fitting at end of MC where the brake lines connect. If memory serves the switch is there also. The typical round slide on connectors are just friction hold and can get disconnected easily when rummaging around doing something else.

Back a bit earlier in this thread there was the question, had anyone ever seen a 39 with cane shift? I said yes, at least the Twelves and thought I had the picture. Found the photo.

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I'll have to get a shot of the trick column shifter on the '54.

Meanwhile, thanks for the extra tip on the brake light switch. I have wiggled that connector a bit to see if anything happens, but no luck yet.

The car is back haunting the shop. I hope to have the brake lights working, p-brake snugged up, new accelerator pump installed, and MAYBE get the vacuum leak ironed out. That might have to wait a bit until the BTV can be R and R'd. I question going in through the floor, as it looks like the pedal must be removed, plus the mat an scrap off the original insulation. Maybe best to just yank the thing, and if so, get it entirely re-built.

Question about the vacuum hose, though. Is that an actual part or is it just a matter of finding a similar will-fit piece of hose. It looks like it might be molded to fit the circular bend.

Here's a pic I couldn't resist. Yes, that is a beverage on the fender. It just looks right somehow.

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You will have to come in from the passenger compt and pull back the carpet and padding no matter what. The accelerator pedal is held by a friction fit ball at the top and a pin at the bottom. That will most likely have to remove to get the carpet back.

The BTV is held onto the floor plate via 4 bolts from the drivers side. The floor plate is held on by sheet metal screws to the body also from the drivers side. On the back of the pedal is a pin thru the pedal rod and a bracket welded to the pedal. Believe there is a cotter key holding it. Once the pin is removed the pedal will swing up and you can hold it elevated with something. I use a bungee cord to the steering wheel. There are a couple of photos in 1952 SC 26 #3. The plumbing shown is for the original unit but the floor mount is the same as yours.

The hose is molded and is fairly soft and very thick -- not typical stuff you get at the parts store.

That's terrific extra information on the removal of the access cover.

Now, I just have to find the vac line part. I looked at Kanter's site but all they seem to sell for BTV is rebuild kits that don't even look like they include that... and I couldn't find anything beyond a picture-- didn't say what was in the kit.

I guess I'll have to give them a call. I doubt NAPA has that part!

I'd look before ordering anything. Doubt it's damaged. Most times it just slips off and is easily put back on. If it did come off and seems too loose when putting back or you feel it might come off again, you could either get a hose clamp or a small dab of adhesive. If it didn't come off, then obviously more serious issues and time for an exchange. I'm not convinced many of the rebuilders even give more than a quick glance at the vacuum section based on some of the reports on site.

If you use a hose clamp, get the thinnest or smallest you can fit on the hose and with either method make sure nothing on cover or piston travel is interfered with and there is decent flex in the hose. Nothing permanent because the hose and the inlet tube assy have to be removed to get the vacuum section out and give access for any service to the rest of the unit.

HH,

You might have made my day, and also my mechanics. We were just discussing whether to have the part ready or to go ahead and have a look first.

No one else mentioned possibility that hose was disconnected. The mechanic might not even have checked it, as he was very busy scooping the "jelly" in the MC and cleaning it out. Yes, the brake fluid had become jellied.

I think that is a good rule of thumb for anyone about to drive one of these cars that is an unknown condition: Get the plug out of the MC and inspect for the condition (or presence) of good brake fluid!

Of all things, though, why did Packard make it almost impossible to access the plug on the MC? I'm so impressed with the ease of working on this car, but they made a hugely important part of routine maintenance inaccessible to the common owner.

Yeah, it's in kind of a poor location, though not much different that some other makes using the same unit, that's one reason the remote fillers were so common. Checking fluid and the like is really much easier if you temporarily remove the short length of fresh air duct.

When restoring a car to service that hasn't been regularly on the road and serviced, it's best to assume everything in the entire brake system needs to be evaluated closely. I wouldn't even think of scraping goo out of the BTV, remove it - it almost certainly could not be restored to reliable service by just scrapping goo and refilling.