Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Checked the Parts X-Ref and don't see any rear wheel bearings and seals listed for 1951.

Anyone have a good source?

MT

Check with Kanter and MAx Meritt


Regards

John Harley

Rear wheel bearings are Timken 25821 Cup, 25877 Cone.
Packard Part # 348645

I have the Timkin Bearings. Send me an PM or e-mail for more info.

MT, Bearings are in the mail. Thanks for the purchase. Regards

After you've changed the bearings and cups, don't forget you also will have to check and perhaps reset the rear axle end play. The process for that is well-explained in the shop manual. Unless you want to set up a dial indicator, you'll want to make a simple tool to make the measurements, here's a pix of JW's version which works just fine (photo used with permission, I hope).

Attach file:

---

  (15.78 KB)

O_D, permission granted, and please feel free to share as you see is needed. The small tool on the top of the photo is one I made to adjust the brake anchors. Also, Howard (HH56) suggested in a previous posting commenting on this tool that one does not need to drill the large hole to go over the axle. One only needs to secure it with the axle nut and washer.

(o[]o)

Please supply detailed specs and photos so we can make the tools. Thanks

No particular specs needed, just make a stiff plate held in place on the axle by the axle nut, and a long threaded screw. Wrap that axle shaft inwards with a good solid hammer blow (no need to bash it, just a firm blow) and then screw the screw in so it just contacts the axle flange. Then(make sure the brakes are relaxed) wrap the far side axle end with a good hammer blow, and measure how much clearance has opened up on the other side between the screw and the flange - that's the axle shaft end play.

If adjustment is needed, you add or remove shims between the axle flange and the backing plate. The shims are circular in the same style as the paper gasket - just cut some from sheet brass if you need more. It's not critical unless you need LOTS of shims to have the equal between the two sides, and you need only make the measurement at one side, it will be the same at the other side.

Just for the record,if you have the drums off, you can just borrow a dial indicator with a magnetic base and stick it to the axle shaft. Bump the axles from side to side as Owen mentioned to make sure the bearings are seated before mounting the indicator. Put the indicator tip against the backing plate, and pull the axle in and out with your hand to get the reading.

As the axle ends and the center thrust block in the dif wear with time, you will almost always need less shims rather than more. Excess endplay is a sure killer of axle bearings--when there is too much play the weight of the car ends up being concentrated on one roller of the bearing at a time rather than spread over several. I try to always set them to the low end of the tolerance.