Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

The heating system in the 1951 thru '56 Packard looks like it is really easy to service - and it is if you know a few tricks that aren't covered in the Service Manual. The V8 heater and the '51 - '54 look the same from the outside but they are different internally and the cores are not interchangeable.

Tools needed are: 5/16 & 7/16 deep wall socket and ratchet; Medium phillips screw driver; medium flat screw driver and whatever is needed to remove the clamps from the water valve to heater core hose and heater core to water pump hose at the heater core. ALL OTHER HOSES CAN REMAIN IN PLACE - unless you're changing the hoses too.

First drain the radiator. You don't have to worry about what remains in the block, you just need to have the water level lower than the heater.

The next step is to remove the four phillips head screws that attach the fresh air supply/heater diverter section. The screws are at one, four, six and 11 O'clock. Removing the flexible ducting can help with this and it's going to have to be removed anyway.

Next remove the short hose that goes from the water valve to heater box at the heater box and long hose that runs from the box to the water pump at the heater core.

Next using a phillips screw driver, un-fasten the diverter cable and pull the cable off the diverter handle.

Going to the inside of the car, run the front seat as far back as it will go.

Next remove the glove box by removing the four small bolts that hold the drawer to the runners and set aside.

Next remove the phillips screws holding the control cables in place on the plenum and elsewhere.

Next remove the two phillips screws holding the water valve in place for a little fudge room for removing the air distributor.

Remove the phillips screws holding the air distributor to the dash panel. The one on the lower left is hiding but by leaving this screw to the last you can wiggle the distributor enough to find it.

Move the air distributor out of the way and remove the four 7/16 nuts with lock washers that hold the Air Distributor Adapter to the dash panel AND hold the heater box assembly to the fire wall. (see second picture)

Go back under the hood (bonnet) and gently pull and lift the heater box and diverter assembly up and out.

With the box out in the open you can take the flat screw driver and remove the 7 screws holding the top and bottom halves of the heater box together.

Be prepared that ALL screws will not want to be removed. You might want to shoot the screws with your favorite pennetrant and let it sit overnight.

Once the box is open the core lifts out of its slot.

Reassemble in reverse order.

I didn't have to do all that with my '55 as the top half came off with little trouble.

Now pour yourself your favorite beverage. YOU'VE EARNED IT!!!!

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Thanks Jim for the blow-by-blow on the heater core. I copied and filed your description of the R/R to use later on my '51 and '53.

Regards,
Steve

Hi Steve,
Happy to be of any help.

Did this on our 51 about a month ago. The heater core had been leaking for some time it would seem with the previous owner and had caused some rust under the passenger floor.I am wondering what is used to retain the bowden cable ends on the heater controls as there are no retainers on this car and the cable ends just pop off when you move the control.

Quote:

It was a 2 prong flat push on type retainer. If you look at the photos Jim posted above, you can see one on the heater control valve in the bottom photo. The Packard stud size varies a bit -- seems to be between .150 - .155 or roughly 5/32".

If the vendors can't help with part 399641 nut or speednut, this push nut from McMaster-Carr is an option. Other than the more common rectangular type, one of the closest I have been able to find. Different tab shape and is slightly less overall diameter though. You might find something that will work locally but if not, McMaster sells these push nuts by the pack of 25.

If it comes down to ordering them, with the price of merchandise (approx $12) and then the freight charges to Canada to keep putting the cables back in place when they fall off starts looking good.

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Thanks. I will see what I can find.