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Well I'm ready to jump into the deep end of the pool and start a blog, hoping this will keep me going on getting this Packard back on the road. I am the third owner of this car, First owner was a Mr. Flagg, the second owner was Mr. Saltz. Mr. Saltz had the right front fender replaced since it had been damaged and he was able to get a new fender at the time. Also at that time I think he had the whole car repainted. Now the paint is coming off in big flakes, so it will need a new paint job in the future, but for now I just want to get it road worthy.
Since the car has sat idle in my garage for the pass five years and over ten in his garage, I figured this would be a good time to go over all the mechanics of this car. I was also thinking this would be a good time to record on video all my steps, so if anyone finds them self in this situation maybe they will find this very helpful. And at the same time if I am doing something wrong, someone out can tell me and I can fix it before I cause a bigger problem. Plus since I am not a mechanic (Just a jack of all trades, master of none.) and no one to help me, I will need the help of all to keep me on track with this project.
I will be starting off with an oil change, but to do a proper oil change I believe I need to drop the oil pan and clean it out as needed. (Ha-Ha as needed, after over 15 years on setting.)
So look for videos on youtube.com (1947 Packard Part 1) and I am also looking into a web page to setup an easy link to the videos and pictures for this project.
Wes

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Wes,

Besides starting this Blog, I see you have included your '47 Custom Super Clipper Eight Touring Sedan in the Packard Owner's Registry
for doing that. And I for one will be following along as you bring your Packard back to life.

Wes, Can you downsize your attached files? It takes "forever" to load when on a dial-up connection. Thanks

Wes, I look forward to reading your blog.

Dallas, sorry that's one of the bad things about dial-up, but I will see what I can do in the future.
One of the reasons I'm starting this Blog is because a few years back I was watching DIY as Mark Lambert showed how to go over a Packard and get it ready for the road. I know I don't have the nice garage he had, but I hope this shows some people any place will do. And also I plan on going into a little deeper in detail as I go over the car. So I am looking for help here to keep me doing things correct. Also if you see me doing something or know a better way, please let me know. I'm hoping to have these videos up and future hobbyist find this useful.
I have always heard to change the oil in an old car you need to drop the oil pan, easier said than done. But when you know what to expect it always makes the job so much easier. So that's what my next video will be. I guess this would be a good time to example why you had to drop the oil pan. It is my understanding, before detergent oil was made all of the heavy particles would fall to the the bottom of the pan where they would set until you cleaned the pan out. Now with detergent oil those particles are suspended in the oil and remove by the oil filter. How often should you clean out your pan with todays oil, I don't know but if you have never removed your pan, maybe you should.

It looks like it will take me about three or four videos, so as I go keep me on track.
Here's the start of the oil change:youtube.com/watch?v=8uyrBl3oq0I

BEfore pulling the pan:

Check radiator for coolant level. Visual inspect or check with hydrometer the coolant to see if it tests/appears to be antifreeze or just water.

Remove ALL spark plugs and squirt a teaspoon full of oil in each cylinder. Turn the engine BY HAND (not with electric starter) at least 4 complete revolutions. I usualy do 8 to 10 revolutions. THis is to determine whether or not the engine has any siezed parts in it from setting for long periods. If it hits a tite spot DO NOT force it.

Remove oil drain plug and catch just a glass cup full of oil. Look for any significant amount of water at the bottom of glass jar. A tiny amount don't be alarmed. Most cars of that era has a drain plug big enuf to stick your finger thru. If there is only 1/8" sediment on the bottom inside of pan and no evidence of alot of debris then i don't bother to remove the pan, especialy if engine is low mileage, say under 50K miles.

Not much point to R&R oil pan if engine is siezed, in which case R&R oil pan mite have to happen a second time.

The oil pan does not have to be dropped for a routine oil change. But for many years Packard recommended dropping the oil pan annually to clean it, and that was in the era of non-detergent oil and also assuming a normal amount of driving, perhaps 12,000 miles per year. My own opinion is that before putting any car into service that has an unknown history regarding when the pan was last dropped, then you should do it before returning the car to service and with typical collector car useage and modern detergent oils, perhaps once every 7-10 or so thereafter.

If the engine is frozen, dropping the oil pan with the engine in the car can be difficult on your 47 as the forward shallow part of the pan sits very close to the crossmember and you will almost always have to rotate the crankshaft once or more to move the counterweights up out of the way in order to slide the pan rearwards. If that is the case it may be necessary to remove the front motor mount and hoist or jack the engine up a few inches.

You might get some further ideas on returning this car to service from this (not necessarily all-inclusive) article:

packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=859

Thanks PackardV8, you added some very good information that I didn't think of and O.D. thanks for David C. link, I had seen that before but forgot all about it. After reading it, I can say he's gone a lot deeper than I was thinking, but I will give it a try. Luckily my engine wasn't frozen, but very good point.
Wes

Upon FIRST start be sure to have a GOOD fire extinguisher handy. Also KNOWN to work mechanical oil pressure gauge installed. If the engine has even just reasonably good oil pressure then dropping the pan rite now is in my oponion, not neccessary and won't be to any advantage.

GEt it started and dolby it out. Watch that oil pressure when it FIRST starts. IT should hit at least ten pounds with in the first 10 seconds of running. If not probably need to shut it down and then MAYBE pull the pan to investigate oil pressure relief valve ( if it is inside the pan maybe external on your model) . FOr just setting and idling any engine will be ok even with as little as 5 PSI oil pressure. But what the hay!!! PRobably start it up and get good pressure rite away. No way to predict. Not even by just pulling the oil pan unless u pull the oil pump too to inspect.

Bottom line: When it fires up it either gets oil pressure or it doesn't. Pulling pans and pumps mite be unneccessary.

Keep us posted.

About how many miles are on the engine?????