Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

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That's some analogy there! Keep 'em coming!

Hey Guys! Thanks for all the responses and suggestions.

After 3 hours of tightening and hitting it finally came loose. It didn't POP as I was expecting. I can now see why it's such a ^&^*%*(^$*%$ to get loose. It's a fairly long taper. Long of surface area to break free. Anyhow, I am moving forward now, cleaning everything up etc. Took a few pics before I started disassembling it. Have the shoes ready and all new hardware. Going to replace the centrally located brake hose and make two new lines to each brake. Going to order some new seals and replace those while I'm in there!

This was the drivers side rear. Next week hopefully I'll get to the passenger side rear, and just maybe have it one the road soooooon!

Chuck in AZ

Boro,

Congratulations!

You accomplished all that and still can type! You are a gifted Man. Keep on taking a 'bite' at a time on your restore.

Seriously, I have NEVER succeeded in getting my ole Clipper's rear drums off. I have a mechanic-friend 250 miles away with experience and equipment. Some day I will 'get 'er dun' with his help. My advantage from your situation is that my car drives AND the rear brakes DO work. I rebuilt the master cyl and front units. The driver side front cyl was corroded, inoperable, and pitted. DIY restoration goes one or two bites at a time. (A half a brake job that is functional, is better than NO brake job that is non-functional).

I am working on a formula for PATIENCE PILLS. As a DIY Packard Geek, I think I have found a market for them!!!

DanL

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Be careful. If you found one rusty and leaking wheel cylinder on the front there is a good chance the rear cylinders need replacing also. Remember if you loose enough fluid anywhere in the system the breaks will fail all the way around. That's the main reason car manufacturers went to duel break systems. You can loose one and still get the car stopped.


BTW I have pulled rear drums off many different cars in the past and was always able to get them to pop off in 5 or 10 minutes. I really think that if they don't pop reght off you arn't hitting the puller hard enough. Bigger hammer comes to mind. The average claw hammer is not heavy enough.

The shops that did break jobs back when the tapered rear axel was the norm couldn't afford the storage space necessary if it took days to get the drums off.

BIGGER HAMMER... Don't forget to put the axel nut back on flush with the end of the axel to protect the threds not to mention to keep the drum from popping off and falling on the floor or on your toe.