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Hey all, I just put new exhaust on my '53 Clipper, 327, and there was no donut or crush gasket or anything between the pipe and the manifold.... I would assume there needs to be since judging by the flange type (top hat style, or at least that's what's we call em. Straight section that goes into manifold, with a flat ring around it maybe an inch down) I see in the Kanter book they list a flange gasket, but no picture. Does anybody know what type/size of gasket goes in here?? It would be nice to just pick one up from the local parts store and not wait for shipping.... Any help it much appreciated!!!

I measure about 2-1/4" OD on the part that goes up inside the manifold.. I've read somewhere that there is a second gasket that goes up inside the manifold, is this correct or is there just once that goes between the flange and manifold?

Parts book just shows one gasket at the flange to manifold connection and same item #300414 is used for many years. Max has a photo. If you can find something locally, dimensions from one I have in a set is 2.750 OD, 2.250 ID with that leaving the width at .250. Thickness looks to be approx .90-.100

When I replaced my exhaust, the new complete just came with a donut style ring that acts as the compression seal between the exhaust pipe and the manifold collector. This also matched what I removed from the car. No other gaskets were used based on what came with the new exhaust, and what was on the old exhaust.

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Thanks for the specs!! The parts store has header collector gaskets in 2.25" ID 1/16" (0.0625") thick, in fiber, copper, or steel core fiber... Based on your specs these should work ok with the ears cut off. Otherwise I found some material in my stash thats fiber on one side, perforated steel on the other, but its only 3/64" (about .047") thick... any thoughts on these two options?

The original appears to be asbestos core with steel overwrap. Whatever that would be closest to in modern would be the choice of material. IMO, thicker would be better. Unless the pipe to manifold junction is very very straight, I'd be concerned that with any misalignment thin material might not have enough give or be able to fill on the wide side and would leak.

I found a gasket that was the exact right size at O'Reilly's, but it was too thin to seal. Today I'm going back to get another on and double them up. An old hot rodder recommended to me I put a layer of red RTV between the two gaskets for added sealing and thickness, but I'm not sure about that.... I guess it can't hurt to try!

Perhaps they make an extreme temperature RTV but most polymeric materials like RTV aren't going to survive long with the heat that's present there.

The muffle shops still do stock those donuts. Check them. The Car-X by me has sold a set to me in the past. They made a short stubby insert for me for my '63 Impala, when USA mufflers built a system with the donuts exposed to the exhaust heat. Those lasted about 50 miles and the shop kept telling me that I was running rich. When they built the system incorrectly.

Good luck,

Mark

I ended up using the Copper RTV instead... For what its worth, I found that Sanderson Headers recommend using ONLY red hi-temp RTV for their header gaskets, and it doesn't get much hotter than right at the exhaust port... I used the Copper because it says its good for an extra 50 degrees over the Red. I went back to the parts store and got another one of the gaskets I got yesterday, and used a layer of silicone between them. Now i just have to wait til tomorrow for it to cure, and see what happens.

The gaskets I got are for, among other applications, the late 60s Jeep V6.... I thought that was very interesting, especially because the bolt holes lined up so no trimming was necessary. Go figure...