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Corvairs used to turn the generator/alternator-fan belt 90 deg. To keep the belt from coming off of the idler and generator pulleys (where the belt make its change of direction) deep groove pulleys were used plus a guard on the idler pulley.

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I came across a 6 to 12 Volt DC to DC converter.

PowerStream PSTC-0624012.

Keeping in mind the Packard 6 volt system is good for slightly less than 300 Watts (6 volts X 45 Amps) at full load and this unit draws 330 Watts at full load. At no load it draws about 12 Watts.

I had measured the load for the 12 volt A/C and it was a good bit less than the 20 Amps the converter can put out.

No mater what I do the load is always on the single belt. If this converter can augment the Alternator or totally replace it, it could be a solution.

The almost $300 bucks is bad.

Jim

If it's to run the AC, one thing I would want clarified before spending $300 and then finding the warranty is void is the statement:

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It doesn't expressly say you cannot use for motors and coils like so many similar products do but it doesn't say they welcome them with open arms either.

Would be nice to know limitations on surge current and if any back spike protection is built in or needed.

These DC to DC converters are becoming ever more efficient but $300 bucks is still a bite for my toy budget.

Even if it is 100% efficient, which it is not, it will still draw 30 Amps at 6 volts to produce 15 Amps at 12 volts plus a little overhead.

I believe I can use the 12 volt battery as a buffer for the spikes and glitches, maybe a couple of additional inductors and capacitors and MOV's. My background is electronics.

I believe I can supplement the existing 12 volt alternator and the load on the 6 volt system for the converter can stay low.

I don't see any mention that Factory Air Conditioned Packard's got a larger capacity generator than 45 AMPs. I know the original system was in the trunk and I believe had two 6 volt fans. The heater fan draws a good 6 to 8 AMPs so times two would be around the 16 AMPs my system takes.

The original factory air did not use a compressor clutch as it ran all the time.

My further plan is to cycle the compressor clutch based on evap coil temperature (more spikes and glitches). If I can get the evap fan up to at least medium speed I can make ice in this car.

Jim

With everything you are trying to do, wouldn't it just be simpler to convert the car to 12v instead of trying to run a hybrid 12v and 6v system?

Just install a 12v alternator where the generator is. Or, get a 12v generator from a 55/56 car if you want to keep it looking original. Also you can also get the 12v blower motor from a 55/56, and it will both directly into the 51-54 blower housing with no issues.

No changes to the wiring would really be needed, just change the bulbs, install a a couple of voltage drops for the radio and and gauges. Everything would be quickly reversible if you wanted to go back to a pure 6v system later. I'm always a believer in "Keep It Simple".

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Understood but there's still the matter of the starter Kev. The 327 ring gears aren't built for the higher torque that's placed on them as a result of doubling the voltage to the 6 volt starter. Apparently significant evidence has been collected indicating accelerated wear and in some cases, tooth shearing. I think quite a few owners are concerned about the damage caused by the upgrade than they are the benefit of having it to run an AC system...As much as I would like AC, I'm in the same predicament and don't favor ruining the ring gear in my car. It's a tough choice to make no matter how it's approached.

Not sure if that is truly a concern on a broad scale. Lots of people have converted 6v cars to 12v, and I havent heard there is a rash of people looking for new ring gears afterward.

I had given thought to converting to 12 Volt. I had given thought to removing the Add-On A/C entirely, and then it got to be June.

The car has the following 6 volt items.
light bulbs, Ignition system, wonderbar radio, power antenna, two heater fans, Windshield washer, Gauges, Starter, Generator and regulator.

The usual way to drop 12 volts for things is a big resistor for each item or just find a 6 volt electronic regulator. All cost some money.

I was trying to keep the car original as it still is, and the 6 volt stuff all works fine.

I have been driving the car to work most of the week with the A/C on, only 107 today.

Jim

how would a refrigerator set up work for an auto A C, unit?

A typical refrigerator setup would not have enough BTU for a car -- essentially a drafty uninsulated box.