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I did. Like one screw out of the bunch that hold my window moulding.

I discovered the solution because the screws to the hinges in the door to the den had pulled out. One of the Ace guys suggested this product, Mr. Grip.

You get these strips of aluminum that have been punched like a fine cheese grater. You can cut them in very thin strips about 1/8th of an inch wide with ordinary scissors.

That darn moulding screw would click every time I ran my hand over it. It had annoyed me for a long time, but I didn't want to put in a larger one or one that didn't match the other screws from the set I got from Max Merrit.

You can fold the little strip of aluminum over and stick it down the hole that has the loose moulding screw until it stops. Pinch it at the surface, pull it out and cut it so it will be at or just below the surface when you put it back in. Put the screw in and screw the moulding down tight.

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Neat product. I used tooth picks, tin foil and teflon tape with limited success in the past. Thanks for passing this tip on!

"How long since you've had a General Tightening of your Packard?"





[picture source: www.2.bp.blogspot.com]

I remember seeing a stack of those service reminder cards when we bought the parts from Benson Motors 30 years ago. I still have a bunch of them somewhere. I guess this will prompt me to look for them, they had several different subjects.

I'm getting ready for this 800 drive in the Duchess and tightening all bolts was on the agenda. I was shocked at how many were not as tight as they should be holding the fenders, front piece with the grille, some trunk screws. Thanks, Gerd, for the reminder that it isn't just after restoration that this can be a problem, but that it always was.

Of course, listening to and for rattles and jingles in a convertible is a life long (life of the car being longer than the driver) endeavor. Even with lock washers, bolts and screws can loosen.

Yuk.

Grab a piece of wood, a bottle of carpenter's glue, and a knife. Cut off pieces of wood and coat them with glue.
Shove everything into the hole. Matchsticks work for light applications.

My preffered method is take the hinge off, drill out the hole 1/64 smaller and glue in a piece of dowel stock.

I have some similiar tricks for steel in the absense of a welder and a mill.

I question the appropriateness of YUK as a response to an excellent suggestion, unless you have the excuse for grumpiness of being in your 80s.

In the Duchess blog I used the dowel method with glue and hardener and sawdust and waiting days for things to really dry to restore the holes for my rear door screws which are in hardwood. Yuk may fit for that, but I wouldn't say it. It worked okay. It's documented.
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... lat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=80
Post#88

But with the new, thicker strikers, new weatherstripping, the dovetails etc, the doors had to be shut hard to close and catch so they could be locked. Over a couple years, this took its toll on a couple of the big wood screws. They could be carefully tightened, but they wouldn't hold for long. Now they are rock solid thanks to Mr Grip.

And the dowel method doesn't work for window moulding, but a little V of this stuff in the hole does.

I guess all I've demonstrated is that you can have a screw loose without having a screw loose.